Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
with the simplicity of his camp bed and travelling trunk when he was on the campaign
trail. The museum was closed for renovation at the time of writing.
Museo Villa Napoleonica di San Martino
(San Martino; adult/reduced €3/1.50; 9am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 1pm Sun)
In San Martino 5km south-
west of town, this villa - a remodelled farmhouse topped by a roof terrace with Napoleon-
ic stone eagles - was where Napoleon dropped in to escape the city heat. In the 1850s a
Russian nobleman had the rather overbearing gallery built at its base, now host to tempor-
ary Napoleon-related exhibitions. Views from the rooftop terrace are lovely.
HOUSE MUSEUM
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
GOURMET ESCAPES
On an island where fine wine and olive oil are abundant, estates producing these products are the nat-
ural accommodation idyll for gourmets keen to immerse themselves in local culinary culture.
Tenuta La Chiusa
( 05 6593 3046;
www.tenutalachiusa.it
; Magazzini 93; d €65-120, up to 5
people €110-185, d per wk €450-850, up to 5 people per wk €750-1300; ), 8km east of Portoferraio
along the SP26 and SP28, is Elba's oldest wine-making estate, and is where Napoleon stayed the night
upon landing on Elba in 1814 before heading into Portoferraio. Right on the seashore, this walled es-
tate is stunning. It has a 17th-century farmhouse, an 18th-century villa, almost 8 hectares of vineyards
tumbling towards the sea, olive groves, palm trees and 10 apartments to rent - some on the beach in
former peasant-worker cottages. Self-catering accommodation (minimum two nights September to
July, five nights August) has a simple charm; guests can buy olive oil and wine at reception; and,
should you not fancy cooking, harbourside Hotel e Ristorante Mare is a wonderful two-minute stroll
away along the pebbly seashore in the tiny harbour of Magazzini. The estate also organises wine-tast-
ing in its cellar.
Agriturismo Due Palme
( 388 7433736, 05 6593 3017;
www.agriturismoelba.it
; Via Schiop-
parello 28, Schiopparello; cottage for 4 people €55-130), on the road to Schiopparello, is another won-
derful self-catering option on an olive plantation - the only one on Elba to produce quality-stamped
IGP olive oil from its 1200 olive trees covering 6 hectares. Again, guests can taste and buy the silky
fresh-green oil (€16 per litre), and traditional accommodation is in five workers' cottages hidden
between trees in an astonishingly flowery garden. The springtime scent of orange trees in blossom will
linger forever. Tree-shaded deck chairs, a BBQ and grassy promenade between century-old olive trees
only heighten the charm of the family estate, created by Fabrizio's grandfather and tended with pas-
sion by the elegant Fabrizio today. Due Plame also has a couple of seaside villas with blockbuster sea
view to rent as well.
Sleeping
