Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
four rooms are glamorously named after famous ladies. Pick from Marilyn, Brigitte, Jac-
queline or Lady D.
Enoteca Tognoni
( 05 6576 2001;
www.enotecatognoni.it
;
Via Lauretta 5; meals €35; lunch & dinner Thu-Tue)
This
serious wine bar on Bolgheri's pretty central piazza is a temple to taste, gastronomic and
oenological. Sassicaia (€22 per 100mL) is among the dozens of different wines to taste
and a traditionally Tuscan menu features the best of local products.
Order a mixed plate of antipasti (€12) - a generous feast of salami, cheese, tomato-
topped bruschetta,
crostini
(thick slices of Tuscan bread toasted and topped with pâté, oil,
tomato and so on) - to accompany your pick of wine and enter foodie heaven.
WINE BAR
€€
TOP OF CHAPTER
Castagneto Carducci
POP 8470
South from Bolgheri a densely wooded minor road rolls between vineyards and olive
groves before climbing into the hills to this old fortified town. Behind its town walls lies a
web of steep, narrow lanes crowded in by brooding houses and dominated by the castle of
the Gherardesca clan that once controlled the surrounding area. (The stronghold was
turned into a mansion in the 18th century.) The 19th-century poet Giosuè Carducci spent
much of his childhood here.
From Castagneto, a winding forested hilly road leads to the tiny hamlet of
Sassetta
(pop-
ulation 580), where houses hang on to their perches for dear life. A map at the entrance
marks local walking trails.
Sleeping & Eating
La Cerreta
( 05 6579 4352;
www.lacerreta.it
;
Via Campagna Sud 143, Pian delle Vigne; s/d half-board €80/120;
)
Akin to the Tuscan dream, La Cerreta is a biodynamic estate with four stone cot-
tages wedged between woods, vines, fig trees with sweeping views of rolling Tuscan hills.
There are horses to ride and the charismatic Daniele takes guests around his 70-hectare
AGRITURISMO
€€
