Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE ETRUSCAN COAST
The coastline south from Livorno to just beyond Piombino and the ferry to the island of El-
ba lives up to its historically charged name, Costa degli Etruschi (Etruscan Coast), thanks
to a smattering of Etruscan tombs unearthed on its shores. Its basic bucket-and-spade
beaches are unstartling, but saunter inland into the hinterland to discover some of
Tuscany's lesser-known, but often very good, wines against a backdrop of pretty hilltop vil-
lages and winemaking towns.
Those keen to explore by pedal-power can find a wonderfully conceived, detailed list of
routes at
www.costadeglietruschi.it
.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
THE WINE & OIL ROAD
If tasting wine on the seashore or pedalling between olive groves rocks your boat, then trip it - by car,
bike or on foot in places - along the
Strada del Vino e dell'Olio
(
www.lastradadelvino.com
)
, a 150km
tourist itinerary stretching south from Livorno to Piombino and across to Elba. It maps out cellars, wine
estates and farms where you can taste and buy local wine and olive oil, and also recommends places to
stay and eat. Its visitor centre (
Click here
) is just outside Bolgheri.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Castiglioncello
Agreeably unpretentious, this small seaside resort 30km south of Livorno is where Italian
critic and patron of the arts, Digo Martelli, held court in the late 19th century. He would
play host to the Florentine Impressionist artists of the period, giving birth to the artistic
movement known as La Scuola di Castiglioncello (Castiglioncello School). The work of
contemporary artists who continue to find inspiration in the town can be viewed in the
Cen-
tro per l'Arte Diego Martelli
( 05 8675 9012; Piazza della Vittoria; 3.30-7pm Fri, 10.30am-1.15pm
& 3.30-7pm Sat & Sun)
, a gallery snug against the gated entrance to
Castello Pasquini
(Piazza della Vittoria)
. Built in the late 19th century with lovely tree-shaded grounds (a great
play park for kids), the crenellated castle is stage to the town's theatre today.
