Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 05 8680 9211;
www.surferjoe.it/diner
; Terrazza Mascagni; meals €15-30; noon-1am Tue-Sun)
What a burst of dynamism this zesty surf bar on the seafront adds to Livorno drinking and
dining scene. American burgers, onion rings, pancakes and smoothies is its culinary bias;
1950s diner is its 'look'; and surf music is its idol. A huge terrace licked by the sea breeze
and shaded with bamboo huts is the icing on the cake.
During the day families pile into Surfer Joe. After dark, a younger crowd flocks here
for DJ and jam sessions, concerts and various other hip surf-music happenings.
Cantina Nardi
( 05 8680 8006; Via Cambini 6-8; meals €20; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat)
In business since 1965,
the Nardis know a thing or three about cooking up hearty, wholly affordable Tuscan fare
in the company of friendly knowledgeable staff and fabulous wine. As much
enoteca
(wine bar) as Slow Food-hailed restaurant, the bistro organises wine tastings and predin-
ner
aperitivi.
Dine between bottled-filled shelves inside, or outside on bijou patio or street
terrace.
TUSCAN
€
La Barrocciaia
MAP
OSTERIA
€
GOOGLE MAP
( 05 8688 2637; Piazza Cavallotti 13; meals €20; 11am-3pm & 6-11pm Tue-Sat)
Livorno's
worst-kept dining secret, yes, but locating it takes a careful eye given its tiny facade
swamped by market stalls. With luck and timing, score a table to discover why every local
speaks of La Barrocciaia with such reverence. The menu fluctuates, as does the wall art,
with the exception of grandpa's picture, quietly supervising the third generation of man-
agement.
Cantina Senese
( 05 8689 0239; Borgo dei Cappuccini 95; meals €20; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat)
Food- and value
-conscious harbour workers are the first to fill the long wooden tables at this wonderfully
unpretentious and friendly eatery, with neighbourhood families arriving later. Ordering is
frequently done via faith in one's server, rather than by menu. The mussels are exception-
al, as is the
cacciucco,
both served with piquant garlic bread.
OSTERIA
€
Osteria del Mare
MAP
SEAFOOD
€€
GOOGLE MAP
