Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
pretty alleys and staircases that stagger uphill to this ramshackle castle. Former military
barracks, it takes its name from the
piagnaro
(stone slabs) that were once widely used to
roof Lunigianese buildings.
Views across town from the castle are impressive and inside is a small museum show-
casing primitive stelae statues found nearby. No one knows exactly what these stelae,
which have been found throughout the Lunigiana, were for - most depict male and female
idols and date from around 3000 BC.
Sleeping
Locanda Gavarini
( 01 8749 3115;
www.locandagavarini.it
; Via Benedicenti 50, Mocrone; s/d €50/70 incl breakfast;
)
This country restaurant and inn, in the village of Mocrone at the end of the narrowest
street you're ever likely to drive along, is a rural idyll where the only noise is twittering
birds and the sunrise cry of the village cockerel. The restaurant (meals €20) is a culinary
homage to Lunigianese tradition and is the best local dine for miles around.
HOTEL, RESTAURANT
€
Costa d'Orsola
( 01 8783 3332;
www.costadorsola.it
;
Orsola; d/tr/q €120/150/200; )
For a true taste of
this beautiful, untamed region, spend a few nights in the restored stone buildings of this
16th-century village hamlet in Orsola, 3.3km from the centre of Pontremoli and 1.6km
from the motorway exit, at the end of a country lane. Wander through olive groves filled
with grazing sheep, lounge by the swimming pool and admire the fabulous views, and sa-
vour regional cuisine in its tasty restaurant. Half-board rates also available.
HOTEL
€€
Eating & Drinking
In summer, come 5pm, what feels like the entire Pontremoli population congregates on
central
Piazza della Repubblica
to mingle in its cafes, eat gelato, and lap up the general old-
world charm that this tiny, overtly rural town exudes. Do the same.
Trattoria Da Bussè
( 01 8783 1371; Piazza del Duomo 31; meals €25; dinner Mon-Thu, lunch & dinner Sat & Sun)
This Slow Food favourite footsteps from the cathedral has been run by the same family
since the 1930s. It has all its original decor and could not be more old-world in vibe. Its
TRATTORIA
€
