Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
WORTH A TRIP
VICO PANCELLORUM
Precariously perched above chestnut and walnut forests on a hillock, angled so steeply it threatens to
tumble down any second, is the tiny hamlet of
Vico Pancellorum
. Gazing in awe at its dramatic loca-
tion aside, the main reason to come here is to experience
Buca di Baldabò
( 05 838 90 62;
bu-
cabaldabo@liberi.it
;
Via Prati 11, Vico Pancellorum; primi/secondi €8/9; lunch & dinner daily
Jun-Aug, dinner Wed-Sun, lunch with reservation mid-Sep-May). This is one of those iconic ad-
dresses every local foodie knows about.
Humbly placed at the back of the village bar where locals while away the day playing cards and
boccia
(boules) or watching TV, the much raved-about restaurant has no printed menu. Just listen to
what's cooking that day and take your pick from a generous choice of homemade pastas and sauces
cooked up daily by Giovanni (Enrico cooks the mains and Luisa the desserts). Game is generally big
in the
secondi
(second course) choice (hence the boar's head trophy above the fireplace) and
contorni
(side dishes) are particularly creative (fennel with bitter greens, sweet cabbage with sausage and so
on).
To get to Vico Pancellorum from Bagni di Lucca, head 9km north along the scenic SS12 to Abetone
and at the northern end of Ponte Coccia take the sharp turning on the left signposted 'Vico Pancellor-
um'; the restaurant is another 3km from here, at the foot of the hamlet, along a steep, narrow, curva-
ceous road. Advance reservations (and a double-check of opening hours that do vary depending if
there's workmen in the village, a friend's birthday and so on) are essential.
Sights & Activities
Ponte del Diarolo
(Borgo a Mozzano)
Head 2.5km southwest out of town to the tiny riverside hamlet of Borgo
a Mozzano, famed for this medieval stone bridge which climbs steeply up and over the
Serchio river. The bridge was first mentioned in the 14th century and in 1670
ceppi
(mill-
stones) were prohibited from using it in a bid to preserve its ancient stone paving. Stag-
gering up to its highest point, dropping stones into the water far below, and skipping down
again is great old-fashioned fun.
BRIDGE
Bagni di Lucca Terme
( 05 838 72 21;
www.termebagnidilucca.it
; Piazza San Martino 11; 8am-12.30pm Mon-Fri & Sun,
8am-12.30pm & 2-4pm Sat)
The thermal springs in this area have been popular spots for relax-
ation and revitalisation since Roman times. Its only spa today has two natural steam grot-
toes and a wellness centre offering various steam and thermal mud baths (€1 to €24); mas-
SPA
