Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Trattoria da Leo
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( 05 8349 2236; Via Tegrimi 1; meals €25; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) A veteran everyone loves,
Leo is famed around town for its friendly ambience and cheap food - ranging from plain-
Jane acceptable to grandma delicious. Get here early in summer to snag one of 10
checked-tableclothed tables crammed beneath parasols on the narrow street outside.
Otherwise, it's noisy dining inside among typically nondescript 1970s decor. The vitello
tonnato (cold veal with a tuna and caper sauce) is excellent. No credit cards.
TRATTORIA
Osteria del Manzo
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TUSCAN €€
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( 05 8349 0649; Via Battisti 28; meals €25; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) A real local favourite
with no outside seating, this busy eatery is charmed simplicity in the making. Tuck into
typical local dishes beneath a beamed ceiling, observed by - yes - a collection of garden
gnomes. Someone clearly collects miniature bottles too.
Cantine Bernardini
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TUSCAN €€
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( 05 8349 4336; www.cantinebernardini.com ; Via del Suffragio 7; meals €40; lunch & dinner Tue-
Sun) This maze of a hybrid osteria-enoteca, hidden in the red-brick vaulted cellars of 16th-
century Palazzo Bernardini, has got the balance just right. Seasonal Tuscan dishes such as
chestnut-flour ravioli in a wild-boar sauce or a springtime flan of violet artichokes tempt
on the menu, while the wine list is Tuscan and exceptional. Extra kudos for the kids'
menu and Friday-evening DJs and live music.
Canuleia
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( 05 8346 7470; Via Canuleia 14; meals €35; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) What makes this dining
address stand out from the crowd is its secret walled garden out the back - the perfect spot
to escape the tourist hordes and listen to birds tweet over partridge risotto, artichoke and
prawn spaghetti or a traditional peposa (beef and pepper stew).
TUSCAN €€
Osteria Baralla
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OSTERIA €€
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