Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
THE EXTRAORDINARY VASARIAN CORRIDOR
Bathed in mystery, this must be the world's most infamous and enigmatic corridor. Look above the
jewellery shops on the eastern side of Ponte Vecchio to see - most dramatically at sunset - Florence's
traordinary elevated covered passageway joining the Palazzo Vecchio on Piazza della Signoria with
the Uffizi and Palazzo Pitti on the other side of the river. Around 1km long, it was designed by Vasari
for Cosimo I in 1565 to allow the Medicis and court's high dignitaries to wander between the two
palaces in privacy and comfort. From the 17th century, the Medicis strung it with self-portraits - a col-
lection of 700-odd art works today that includes self-portraits of Andrea del Sarto (the oldest),
Rubens, Rembrandt, Canova and others.
The original promenade incorporated tiny windows (facing the river) and circular apertures with
iron gratings (facing the street) to protect those who used the corridor from outside attacks. But when
Hitler visited Florence in 1941, his chum and fellow dictator Benito Mussolini had big new windows
punched into the corridor walls on Ponte Vecchio so that his guest could enjoy an expansive view
down the Arno from the famous Florentine bridge.
On the Oltrarno, the corridor passes by
Chiesa di Santa Felicità
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(
www.santafelicita.it
;
Piazza di Santa Felicità; 9.30am-noon & 3.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat) -
atmospheric host to some wonderful music concerts - thereby providing the Medici with a private bal-
cony in the church where they could likewise attend Mass without mingling with the minions. Stand
in front of the small Romanesque church on Piazza di Santa Felicitià and admire the trio of arches of
the Vasarian Corridor that runs right above the portico outside the otherwise unnotable church facade.
Inside, walk towards the altar and look backwards to see the Medici balcony up high (and imagine the
corridor snaking behind it). Oh, and before leaving the church, don't miss Ghirlandaio's
Meeting of St
Anne and St Joachim
hung at the end of its right transept.
The Vasarian Corridor is open to just a privileged few - look for spots in the Uffizi and elsewhere
where you can get sneak peeks of the corridor. To actually visit it - a memorable experience - either
join a guided tour of just five people (in Italian only) organised very occasionally by
Firenze Musei
(€15 including Uffizi admission and booking fee) - tours are advertised in advance on the Uffizi web-
site (
www.uffizi.firenze.it
). Or, the easier option, hook up with a private English-speaking tour guide;
1; adult/child €125/70 incl Uffizi admission & breakfast; 2 to 3 times weekly) organises morning
tours that include two hours in the Uffizi, breakfast in its rooftop cafe and the corridor. Whatever tour
you plump for, reserve well in advance.
Grande Museo del Duomo
MAP
MUSEUM
GOOGLE MAP
(Cathedral Museum;
www.operaduomo.firenze.it
;
Piazza del Duomo 9; combined ticket to dome, baptistry,
campanile, crypt and museum adult/child under 14 €10/free; 9am-6.50pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1.05pm Sun)
Surprisingly overlooked by the crowds yet one of the city's most impressive, this museum
