Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
The first measure of liquid you add should almost always be wine. It doesn't take very
much, but you do need to have some degree of tartness in the background (especially con-
sidering all that mantecazione you're going to be doing at the end). The wine will cook
away in just a couple of minutes. Now begin adding the stock. The stock must be kept at
a simmer the whole time. Adding cold stock to the rice or not keeping your risotto pan
at a high enough temperature will delay the cooking and result in a gummy risotto. The
first addition of the stock can be as much as 1 cup or even a little more. After you've giv-
en it a quick stir to distribute the rice, you don't really need to stir it again until the stock
is almost gone. Add more stock when you can see a clean track in the bottom of the pan
when you stir. With the second addition, reduce the amount of stock just a little. Again,
once you've stirred the rice, you don't need to pay too much attention. When you can see
a clean track in the bottom of the pan, it's time for the third addition. This is where you
need to start paying attention. Add Y2 to 3/a cup of stock and when that is almost gone,
taste the rice. A properly made risotto will be slightly chewy rather than mushy, but there
should be absolutely no crunchy uncooked starch left in the kernel. Right before you stir
in that third addition is also the time to add any delicate, quickly cooked ingredients, such
as asparagus tips, fresh herbs, shellfish or ingredients that may have been cooked in ad-
vance. When the rice is tender but still a little chewy, the risotto is almost done - but not
quite. Add just enough stock to loosen the rice, then cook it just long enough to make it
creamy.
Now you beat in the fat. This should be done off the heat to form a smooth emulsion that
won't break apart. And it should be done vigorously - not only are you beating in the fat,
but you're also bruising the rice kernels, squeezing out the last bit of starch and finishing
the thickening.
Finally, risotto must be served immediately and in hot bowls. This is not a nicety but a
necessity -a cold bowl or too long a wait will cool the risotto and set the starch, making
the dish heavy and gummy.
Asparagus with Sauce Mimosa
Stirring together hard-cooked eggs, herbs and olive oil makes a sauce that is almost
like a slightly chunky mayonnaise. Called sauce mimosa, it's one of those tradi-
tional preparations that seem to have largely disappeared - for no apparent reason.
6 SERVINGS
