Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
artichoke are what botanists call bracts, which are actually somewhere between the two.
Bracts are tough, leaflike objects that protect the flower.
But the artichoke's contrariness is more than skin-deep. In fact, peel an artichoke and
set it aside for a minute, and you'll soon discover another of its eccentricities. Exposed to
air, artichokes turn brown or even black. This is not altogether unusual in itself - potatoes
do the same thing, and so do peaches and shrimp, among many diverse foods.
The process is what chemists call enzymatic browning. The plant contains a substance
that when exposed to oxygen changes the color of the flesh. This is not always bad. All tea
would be green if it were not for enzymatic browning. In the case of artichokes, though,
it's hard to see the benefit, at least for the cook. But whereas it is almost impossible to
prevent enzymatic browning, we can delay it fairly easily, either by preventing exposure
to oxygen or by treating the flesh with an acidic compound. Neither of these takes any
special equipment, just a bowl filled with acidulated water - plain old tap water to which
you've added an acid of some sort (white vinegar and lemon juice work equally well).
When you're done, keep the artichokes in the water until you're ready to cook them. Old-
time chefs used to call for cooking artichokes en blanc - in a com bination of water, acid
and flour. This only slightly improved the color and pretty much wrecked the flavor for
anything other than serving them as glorified chips and dip. You're better off settling for
only minimal browning.
Another odd thing about the artichoke is its tendency to make everything taste sweeter
- not in a good way, but that weird metallic kind of sweet you get from diet soft drinks.
This is mostly caused by a naturally occurring chemical called cynarin (artichokes belong
to the genus Cynara), which is unique to artichokes. This sweet reaction can be so power-
ful that it is almost off-putting. Sometimes the flavor is so strong that even a sip of water
tastes as if it has been artificially sweetened. It is no surprise that this sweetening makes
artichokes extremely unfriendly to wine. It can be reduced by extended cooking, which
results in a gentler, more complex flavor. Remember that when you're thinking about a
dish: Cook artichokes briefly, and they will have a big, brassy edge that can stand up to
the most aggressive seasonings - anchovies, garlic, black olives ... bring'em all on. Cook
the vegetable more gently, and you'll be surprised at its delicacy.
Unlike most vegetables, which can be harvested only during a single season, artichokes
actually bear twice. There is a large harvest in the spring - March to May accounts for
about 70 percent of the total crop - and then a smaller one in late fall. Some connoisseurs
claim to be able to detect a difference between spring and fall harvests, but if there is one,
it is incredibly slight.
