Agriculture Reference
In-Depth Information
How do you decide which ones to use in which ways? The answer comes down to
how much starch a potato contains - the higher the amount, the drier and fluffier the tex-
ture of the cooked potato. At the very top end of the scale are the russet, or baking, pota-
toes, such as Russet Burbank. When they are cooked, their starch cells swell and separate.
At the opposite end of the scale are dense, moist potatoes such as the Red La Soda. The
starch cells in these potatoes tend to stick together, even after cooking, giving their flesh a
waxy texture that is perfect for dishes such as soups and potato salads, where you want the
chunks of potato to remain intact and not fall apart. In the great middle are potatoes that
are lumped under the nearly useless term "all-purpose." In truth, these potatoes demand
more careful handling than those at either extreme. When baked in the traditional way,
they don't have the creamy texture of true baking potatoes. They are better roasted, be-
cause they'll hold their shape and form a nice crust on their cut surfaces. Although you can
use them in potato salads, you must stir very carefully to avoid turning them into mush.
They are perfect for grating into potato pancakes or hash browns and are unbeatable in
gratins.
Which kind of potato you choose for mashing depends on what kind of mashed pota-
toes you like. For a very French, very elegant puree, one that is lighter than air but rich
with butter, use a baking potato. Their light and fluffy cooked texture easily forms a silky
smooth liaison with the fat. People who prefer their mashed potatoes on the chunky side
should use all-purpose potatoes, since their closely packed starch cells will hold together
even after you beat in butter and cream.
Care is required in mashing potatoes. The starch cells in the cooked flesh are delicate; if
handled roughly, they will break, and you will wind up with something akin to wallpaper
paste. A potato ricer or a food mill will give the finest texture; use a potato masher or a
big fork if you like your potatoes a little chunkier. Use a folding motion and a spatula or
whisk to beat in the butter and hot cream or milk. The amount of butter and whether or not
you choose cream or milk is up to you. The famed French chef Joel Robuchon takes the
prize for the richest mashed potatoes - nearly half spuds and half butter. Escoffier, on the
other hand, used only about 10 percent butter. Let your taste be your guide.
