Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Two Nights of Music
in Lapa
Friday
There is nowhere better to
get acquainted with the
bewildering diversity of
Brazilian musical styles
than in Lapa on a Friday
night. Begin at around
8pm with an ice-cold beer
in the
Mala e Cuia
boteco
(see p62)
on Avenida
Presidente Wilson in
Cinelândia, which has the
nearest metro station to
Lapa.
Choro
, which was
popular in Rio before
samba
, can be heard live
at
Carioca da Gema
(see
p84)
on Avenida Mem da
Sá. This club has a great
pizza restaurant. At about
10pm, leave
Carioca da
Gema
for some
gafieira
or
ballroom
samba
, played by
a big band fronted by a
single singer.
Gafieira
is
best heard some 300 ft
(91 m) away at the
Clube
dos Democraticos
(see
p84)
. Be prepared to
dance and be danced with.
After this, sample some
live
samba
at the nearby
Casa de Mae Joana
or
Rio Scenarium
(see p84)
-
the former is small and
intimate, the latter larger
with a Bohemian
atmosphere. Both play
famous
samba
standards.
Ladeira do Selarón
Ladeira de Santa Teresa but
locals refer to them as the
Ladeira do Selarón - in homage
to the Chilean artist who
decorated them with colored and
mirrored mosaic tiles. Although
the bottom steps are safe in day
time, taking the full walk along
the steps is not advised.
d
Map
W5 • Praça Cardos Câmara, Lapa
(
Circo Voador
This concert arena and its
coterie of musicians and artists
have revitalized Lapa, which was
once dangerous and decrepit.
Shows at the Circo attracted
visitors and brought new life to
old
samba
clubs, encouraging
new clubs to open. Some of
Rio's best acts, including Seu
Jorge, began here. The Circo is a
great place to check out Rio's
cutting-edge live talent.
d
Map W4
• Rua dos Arcos s/n, Lapa • (021) 2533
0354 • www.circovoador.com.br
Saturday
If Friday has not left you
exhausted, come back on
Saturday evening to the
Circo Voador
for more
Rio funk, or dance around
Largo de Lapa to some
northeastern Brazilian
forró
played on accordion,
triangle, and
surdo
drum.
Other options include
bossa nova
electronica at
a venue such as
Espírito
Santa
(see p84),
or more
from the endless list of
Brazilian musical styles
(see pp38-9)
.
)
Feira do Rio Antigo
On the first Saturday of each
month there is a lively antiques
and bric-a-brac fair on Rua do
Lavradio, northeast of Arcos da
Lapa. The streets fill up with
old-fashioned furniture and
household items, as well as
people dancing to live bands
playing
samba
and, unusually
for Rio, tango.
d
Map V4
83
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