Central Sicily - Sicily - page 468

but the drawcard is the lavish Granfonte fountain. Built in 1651 by Nicolò Branciforte, it's made up of 24 separ-
ate jets against a sculpted facade.
The next leg takes you 30km up the SS117 through dramatic scenery to Nicosia . Set on four hills, the
centre of action is Piazza Garibaldi. Check out the Cattedrale di San Nicolò, the Franco-Lombard palazzi and the
Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore. Near the entrance to Nicosia, Baglio San Pietro is great for a meal break or even
an overnight stop.
Push southwards along the SP18 to Agira , another sloping hillside town capped by a medieval Norman
castle. A couple of kilometres out of Agira on the SS121 the well-tended Canadian Military Cemetery
houses the graves of 490 soldiers killed in July 1943. Further on the SS121, Lago di Pozzillo is a scenic
stretch of water surrounded by hills and groves of almond trees, ideal for a picnic.
Some 13km east of Regalbuto, there's a turn-off for Centuripe , a small town whose grandstand views of
Mt Etna have earned it the nickname the Balcone di Sicilia (Balcony of Sicily). Unfortunately, its strategic posi-
tion has also brought bloodshed and the town has often been fought over. In 1943 the Allies captured the town
and the Germans, realising that their foothold in Sicily had slipped, retreated to the Italian mainland.

Eating

Il Locandiere
( 093 35 82 92; Via Luigi Sturzo 55-59; meals €30; Tue-Sun) Those in the know head to this smart
little restaurant for top-quality seafood and impeccable service. What exactly you'll eat
depends on the day's catch, but the fish couscous is superb and the casarecce con ragù di
tonno (pasta fingers with tuna sauce) a sure-fire hit. Dolci (sweet) show-stoppers include
delicious connoli a cucchiao ( cannoli with fig cream).
The wine list is long enough to please most palates.

SEAFOOD €€

Il Palazzo Dei Marchesi

Di Santa Barbara
( 093 32 24 06; Via San Bonaventura 22; pizzas from €4, meals €30; Tue-Sun) A baronial staircase
takes you to the 1st floor of an aristocratic palace, and onto this smart, friendly restaurant,
known for its excellent seasonal cuisine. The onus is on meat - the straccetti di manzo con
cuori di carciofo in crema di asparagi selvatici (pork with artichoke hearts in a wild as-
paragus sauce) is a standout .

SICILIAN €€

La Piazzetta
( 093 32 41 78; Via Vespri 20; pizzas from €4.50, meals €25; Fri-Wed) For many locals Saturday
night means a slap-up meal at La Piazzetta , a much-loved centro storico (historic city
centre) restaurant. That might mean a pizza and beer or something more substantial like

SICILIAN €€