Tyrrhenian Coast - Sicily - page 237

grain stores of the castle. It has a panoramic terrace for summer dining and is renowned
for its assured treatment of classic Sicilian dishes. You can order à la carte or opt for an
excellent-value set menu comprising four courses plus coffee.
Caccamo is on the SS285 between Palermo and Agrigento. Randazzo ( 091 814 82 35;
www.autobusrandazzo.altervista.org ) buses travel to/from Cefalù (€4.40, 70 minutes, one daily),
Palermo (€4.60, 70 minutes, three daily) and Termini Imerese (€2.50, 30 minutes, six to
nine daily). There are no Sunday services.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Himera
Founded in 648 BC by Greeks from Zankle (now Messina), this usually deserted archaeolo-
gical site ( 091 814 01 28; adult €2, EU citizen 18-25yr €1, under 18 or 65+ free; 9am-4pm Mon-Sat,
9am-1.30pm Sun) was named after the river Imera, which flows nearby. It was the first Greek
settlement on this part of the island and was a strategic outpost on the border of the
Carthaginian-controlled west. In 480 BC the town was the scene of a decisive battle, with
the combined armies of Theron of Agrigento and Gelon of Syracuse defeating a sizable
Carthaginian army led by Hamilcar, who threw himself on the funeral pyre of the
Carthaginian dead in a heroic act of self-immolation. The Carthaginians had intended to
take Himera and then wrest control of the island from Greek hands, but the Greek victory
put an end to all that. In 409 BC, Himera paid the price for Carthage's defeat, when
Hamilcar's nephew Hannibal destroyed the town in revenge for his uncle's death.
Unfortunately, the remains here are disappointing when compared with other Greek
sites around the island. The only recognisable ruin is the Tempio della Vittoria (Temple of
Victory), a Doric structure supposedly built to commemorate the defeat of the Carthagini-
ans. Whatever its origin, Hannibal did a good job of destroying it.
Some artefacts recovered from the site are kept in a small antiquarium about 100m west
of the site's entrance (it's up a small lane off the other side of the main road). Although
the more impressive pieces are in Palermo's Museo Archeologico Regionale, you can still
see well-sculpted lion-head spouts that were used to drain water off the temple's roof.
Nancini & Saso ( www.nancinisaso.com ) buses travel between Termini Imerese and Villaura,
stopping at Himera en route (€2.50, 15 minutes, three daily Monday to Saturday).