Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
At the northwest corner of the historic centre, this multicultural maze of narrow streets
was once the heart of the Saracen city. The main thoroughfare was Via Bagno, which still
has its
hammam
(public baths). Today, the area is run-down but interesting, in large part
because it retains a strong Arab connection through the Tunisians who now live here.
Castle
(Piazza Mokarta)
Just in from the waterfront, the ragged remains of Count Roger's Norman
Castle have definitely seen better days, but their forlorn ruination is wonderfully atmo-
spheric at night (when they are floodlit).
RUIN
Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio
Across from the Museo del Satiro, this early 18th-century church collapsed in the 1930s,
but its roofless remains make a photogenic detour, with their circular colonnade of twin
columns backed by a vine-draped stone wall.
CHURCH
Eating
Eyem Zemen
( 347 3869921; Via Porta Palermo 36; meals €15; closed Tue)
For a little taste of Tunisia, try this
delightful hole-in-the-wall in the heart of La Casbah, marked by a bilingual Italian-Arabic
sign. Tunisian owner Fatima serves specialities from her homeland, including excellent
cous cous and classic savoury pastries known as
bric
, filled with either tuna or shrimp. In
warm weather, sit at tables on the little piazza outside.
TUNISIAN
€
La Bettola
( 0923 94 64 22;
www.ristorantelabettola.it
; Via Maccagnone 32; meals €30-44; closed Wed)
Mazara is Si-
cily's largest fishing centre, so it's not surprising that most restaurants here specialise in
seafood. La Bettola is one of the very best. Over the past four decades, owner Pietro Sardo
has established a reputation as one of Sicily's top chefs, creating sensational dishes in his
immaculate kitchen. It's right around the corner from Mazara's train station.
SICILIAN
€€
Information
EMERGENCIES
Hospital
(Ospedale Civico A Ajello;
0923 90 12 33; Via Salemi 175)
