Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
MARETTIMO
The wildest, most westward and least developed of the Egadi Islands, Marettimo is a collection of green moun-
tain peaks and whitewashed houses dipping into a little harbour packed with bobbing fishing boats. With the
overfishing of tuna affecting fishermen's incomes, the villagers are increasingly focusing on the economic poten-
tial of tourism, and more accommodation options have cropped up in the last few years; however, this doesn't
mean that you'll find Marettimo packed at any time of the year - indeed, the island still virtually shuts down in
winter, and remains sleepier than its neighbours even in peak summer season.
There's only one road on the island, and the main mode of motorised transport is electric carts, making this a
prime destination for walkers. Fanning out in all directions from the town centre, a well-marked network of trails
leads quickly into unspoilt nature, climbing through fragrant pine forests to dramatic coastal lookouts, then des-
cending again to remote beaches. At various points along the way, well-placed picnic benches invite hikers to
take a shady break.
Three of the most popular trails are the hike north from town to the crumbling Norman castle perched on the
lonely promontory of
Punta Troia
, the short climb west to
Case Romane
, where the remains of Roman houses
share the stage with a spare, whitewashed Byzantine church, and the longer hike following the island's southwest-
ern shores to the secluded beach at
Cala Nera
.
Marettimo is also a perfect place for relaxation and swimming - other good beaches include
Cala Sarda
and
stunning
Cala Bianco
.
Ustica Lines (
Click here
) and Siremar (
Click here
)
hydrofoils serve the island from Trapani, Levanzo and Fav-
ignana; Ustica Lines also has service from Marsala. See their websites for schedules and fares.
Just north of Marettimo's hydrofoil dock you'll find one of western Sicily's best family-run restaurants,
Il Ve-
liero
( 0923 92 32 74; Via Umberto 22; meals €30) . Chef-owner Peppe Bevilacqua goes to the market daily,
picking out the freshest catches. The resulting menu is a seafood-lover's fantasy, featuring superbly prepared Si-
cilian classics like
pasta con le sarde
and
frittura mista
(fried shrimp and calamari) alongside perfectly grilled
seasonal fish.
