Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Seafood restaurants and snack stalls have colonised the lido (Viale Regina Elena) and
the main piazza hosts numerous cafes with outdoor seating. One of Sicily's trendiest res-
taurants, Bye Bye Blues (
091 684 14 15; www.byebyeblues.it ; Via del Garofalo 23; meals €50;
closed
Mon) , is located a few streets back from the beach.
Catch AMAT bus 806 (€1.30, 20 minutes, every 20 to 30 minutes between 4am and
11.30pm, fewer services on Sunday) from Piazza Politeama.
TOP OF CHAPTER
Monreale
Inspired by a heavenly vision of the Virgin and driven by earthly ambition, William II set
about building the sumptuous Cattedrale di Monreale ( 091 640 44 03; Piazza del Duomo; admission to
cathedral free, north transept €2, terrace €2; 8.30am-12.45pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Sat, 8-10am & 2.30-5pm Sun) ,
8km southwest of Palermo. Living in the shadow of his grandfather, Roger II - who was
responsible for the cathedral in Cefalù and the Cappella Palatina - and vying with Walter
of the Mill, who was overseeing construction of a grand Duomo in Palermo, William was
determined that his cathedral should be the biggest and best of all. The result was Mon-
reale, considered to be the finest example of Norman architecture in Sicily. The mosaicists
were from Sicily and Venice, but the stylised influence of the Byzantines pervades their
work. Completed in 1184 after only 10 years' work, the mosaics are an articulate and fit-
ting tribute to William's ambition and to the grandeur of Sicilian culture at that time.
The interior is among the most impressive creations of the Italian Middle Ages. A cata-
logue of shimmering mosaics depicts Old Testament stories, from the creation of man to
the Assumption, in 42 different episodes. The beauty of the mosaics cannot be described -
you have to see for yourself Noah's ark perching atop the waves or Christ healing a leper
infected with large leopard-sized spots. The story of Adam and Eve is wonderfully por-
trayed, with a grumpy-looking, post-Eden-eviction Eve sitting on a rock while Adam la-
bours in the background. The large mosaic of Christ, dominating the central apse, is stun-
ning. Binoculars make viewing the mosaics easier, although they are still impressive to
the naked eye. Take €1 coins to illuminate the ill-lit mosaics in the apses. For a guide to
the various scenes, print out the handy key and map at www.seepalermo.com/mon-
realekeyprint.htm .
Outside the cathedral is the entrance to the cloister (adult €6, EU citizen 18-25yr €3, under 18 & 65+
free;
9am-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun & Mon) , which illustrates William's love of Arab
 
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