Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 091 32 04 31; Piazzetta Mulino a Vento 4; meals €25-34; lunch Mon-Sat, dinner Tue-Sat)
Known
throughout Palermo for its fresh seafood, this bustling eatery is another hot spot for seri-
ous foodies. Nibble on toothsome sesame bread and plump olives while perusing the
menu for a pasta dish that takes your fancy, then head to the seafood display (often still
wriggling) to choose a second course. The genial owner greets his many regular custom-
ers by name.
Sant'Andrea
MODERN SICILIAN
€€
( 091 33 49 99;
www.ristorantesantandrea.eu
; Piazza Sant'Andrea 4; meals €31-36; dinner Mon-Sat)
Tucked
into the corner of a ruined church in a shabby piazza, Sant'Andrea's location doesn't in-
spire much confidence, but its creative Sicilian dishes and congenial high-ceilinged dining
room keep well-heeled customers picking their way across the broken flagstones nightly.
Cucina Papoff
SICILIAN
€€
( 091 58 64 60;
www.cucinapapoff.com
;
Via Isidoro la Lumia 32; meals €27-37; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-
Sat)
Specialising in Sicilian classics like
trancio di pesce in umido con capperi e olive
(slow-simmered fish stew with capers and olives), Papoff creates an elegant ambience
with stone walls, grand arched doorways, carved wooden ceilings, exposed brickwork and
torch-style lighting.
Drinking & Nightlife
Lively clusters of bars can be found along Via Chiavettieri in the Vucciria neighbourhood
(just northwest of Piazza Marina) and also in the Champagneria district due east of Teatro
Massimo, centred on Piazza Olivella, Via Spinuzza and Via Patania. Higher-end drinking
spots are concentrated in Palermo's new city. In summer many Palermitans decamp to
Mondello by the sea.
BAR
Kursaal Kalhesa
( 091 616 21 11;
www.kursaalkalhesa.it
; Foro Italico Umberto I 21; noon-3pm & 6pm-1.30am Tue-Sat,
noon-1.30am Sun)
This bar of choice for the city's avant-garde occupies the remnants of a
handsome early-19th-century palace, built into the city walls next to the monumental
16th-century town gate Porta dei Greci. Recline on silk-covered divans beneath soaring