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spacious and light interior - the central nave and two flanking aisles separated by
slender octagonal pillars give an enormous sense of lateral space.
The interior is almost devoid of imagery of the sort to be found in Barcelona's other
large Gothic churches, but Santa Maria was lacking in superfluous decoration even be-
fore anarchists gutted it in 1909 and 1936. Keep an eye out for music recitals, often
baroque and classical.
NEED TO KNOW
93 319 05 16; Plaça de Santa Maria del Mar;
9am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm;
Jaume I
PLA DE LA GARSA €€
Catalan
( 933 15 24 13;
www.pladelagarsa.com
;
Carrer dels Assaonadors 13; mains €10; dinner; Jaume
I)
This 17th-century house is the ideal location for a romantic candlelit dinner. Timber
beams, anarchically scattered tables and soft ambient music combine to make an enchant-
ing setting over two floors for traditional, hearty Catalan cooking, with dishes such as
tim-
bal de botifarra negra
(a black pudding dish with mushrooms).
TANTARANTANA €
Mediterranean
( 93 268 24 10; Carrer d'en Tantarantana 24; mains €6-7; dinner Mon-Sat; Jaume I)
Surroun-
ded as it is by the furiously fashionable front-line nuclei of
nueva cocina española
- the
new Spanish cuisine - this spot is a refreshing contrast. There is something comforting
about the old-style marble-top tables, upon which you can sample simple but well-pre-
pared dishes such as risotto or grilled tuna served with vegetables and ginger. It attracts a
30-something crowd who enjoy the outdoor seating in summer.
EN APARTÉ €
French
( 932 69 13 36;
www.enaparte.es
;
Carrer Lluis el Piados 2; mains €8-10; Arc de Triomph or Ur-
quinaona)
A great low-key place to eat good-quality French food, just off the quiet Plaça de
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