Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
KNOWING THE NGÖBE
The earliest inhabitants of Costa Rica's far southern corner were the Ngöbe, historically
referred to as the Guaymí. The name Guaymí was a Spanish transliteration of what an-
other indigenous group had dubbed the Ngöbe - and while `Guaymí' is not considered of-
fensive, necessarily, the Ngöbe rightly prefer the name that they call themselves.
Having migrated over generations from neighboring Panama, the Ngöbe now inhabit in-
digenous reserves in the Valle de Coto Brus, the Península de Osa and southern Golfo
Dulce; however, they retain some seminomadic ways and are legally allowed to pass
freely over the border into Panama. This occurs frequently during the coffee-harvesting
season, when many travel to work on plantations.
The Ngöbe have been able to preserve - to some degree - their customs and culture,
and it is not unusual to see women wearing the traditional brightly colored, ankle-length
naguadress. Unlike other indigenous groups, the Ngöbe still speak Ngöbere, their native
language, and teach it in local schools.
One reason the culture has been able to preserve its traditional ways is that the Ngöbe
reserves are largely inaccessible. But as tourism filters into the furthest reaches of the
country, the growing interest in indigenous traditions and handicrafts may actually en-
courage their preservation, so long as it is managed with community participation and
visitor respect.
The easiest way to visit a Ngöbe reserve is to head to the visitor center at La Casona or
the community museum (open 8am-5pm) at Villa Palacios in the Coto Brus reserve,
about 8km north of San Vito and another 8km off the Interamericana (the turnoff is
marked by a hard-to-miss statue of a woman in Ngöbe dress).
To get the full-on immersion experience (and fully off the beaten track), stay for a few
northern Península de Osa. The lodge is run by the Carreras, a Ngöbe family. This unique
lodge provides a rare chance to experience the Ngöbe lifestyle firsthand, with the family.
This is hands-on stuff: gather crabs and fish with palm rods; harvest palmito and yucca;
and learn how to prepare these specialties over an open fire. Accommodations are in rus-
tic, wooden houses, built on stilts with thatch roofs. Make reservations and find out de-
tails about the journey on the website.
Sights
