Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
MATAPALO
For years, Matapalo has been off most travelers' radars, though without good reason, as
this palm-fringed, gray-sand beach has some truly awesome surf. With two river-mouth
breaks generating some wicked waves, Matapalo is recommended for intermediate to ad-
vanced surfers who are comfortable dealing with rapidly changing conditions. As you
might imagine, Matapalo is not the best beach for swimming as the transient rips here
are about as notorious as they come.
The first hotel you'll see after turning off the Costanera is
El Coquito del Pacífico
(
2787-5031;
www.elcoquito.com
; bungalows from US$65, houses US$125; ), which con-
sists of a small batch of bungalows highlighted by their beaming whitewashed walls and
rustic furnishings. The entire complex is attractively landscaped with shady gardens of al-
mond and mango trees, and centered on an open-air bar and restaurant.
Dreamy Contentment
( 2787-5223;
www.dreamycontentment.com
;
r/bungalows/houses
US$28/102/226; ) has something for everyone - it's a Spanish-colonial property with
impressive woodworking and towering trees throughout. The bungalows are equipped
with functional kitchenettes, though the real star attraction is the main house, which has
the kitchen of your dreams, a beachfront veranda and a princely bathroom complete with
hot tub. Budget travelers will find basic but reasonably comfortable backpacker rooms
that put you in front of the surf without having to dig too deep.
Near the end of the road you'll find the friendly and laid-back
Rafiki Beach Camp
(
2787-5014;
www.rafikibeach.com
;
d/tents incl breakfast US$60/125; ), with luxury safari-style
beachfront tents andcabinas. All of the tents are fully furnished and have electricity, tiled
bathroom with hot shower, hand-painted sink and ocean views. Thecabinasacross the
road are also beautifully decorated and come ornamented with fresh flowers. There's a
pool overlooking the ocean, adjacent to aranchowith communal kitchen.
Buses between Quepos and Dominical can drop you off at the turnoff to the village;
from there it's a couple of kilometers to this off-the-beaten-track beach.
Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge
Located on the Pacific coast 3km northeast of Dominical on the road to Quepos, this
wild-
life refuge
(
2787-0003;
www.haciendabaru.com
; admission US$7, each extra day US$2, guided
