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A waterfall-fed pool is surrounded by cushy blood-red lounge chairs and day beds at this
Euro-chic boutique hotel. Attractive tile rooms are draped in linens, but it's absolutely
worth it to splurge on the more expensive bungalows. Set amid tropical gardens, each one
is creatively and uniquely decorated according to a different theme.
Malpaís Surf Camp & Resort LODGE
( 2640-0357; www.malpaissurfcamp.com ; camp US$11, dm US$17, d with/without bathroom
US$73/40; )
There are comfortable, private cabañas and more luxurious digs, but the best deal at this
surfers' lodge is the open-air rancho , with a tin roof and pebble floors, which you can
share with three other surfers. Wander the landscaped tropical grounds, swim in the lus-
cious pool, grab a cold beer in the open-air lounge and soak up the good vibes.
Blue Jay Lodge BUNGALOW
(
2640-0089; www.bluejaylodgecostarica.com ; d/tr/q incl breakfast US$83/100/115;
)
These charming stilted bungalows are built along a forest-covered hillside, each with a
huge, screened-in veranda with hammocks. Though they're a bit on the rustic side, the lux-
ury is in their spaciousness and openness to the dramatic surroundings. The lodge is 200m
from the beach.
Caracolas SODA
( 2291-1470; mains US$4-13; 7am-9pm; )
The lone soda on this end of the coast. It serves típica on timber tables in a garden that
rolls onto the rocky beach, and does all the usual chicken, beef and seafood dishes, as well
as sandwiches and salads. But the reason to come here is to feel the ocean breeze and stare
at the setting sun. There are also rooms available from US$45 to US$100.
Pachamama HOTEL
( 2640-0195; www.pacha-malpais.com ; bungalows US$65-75, house US$160; )
This sweet earth-loving property offers tremendous value, especially in its quaint faux-
dobe bungalows, each with a kitchenette and lovely shady front porch. There's also a
wicked two-story two-bedroom house with a romantic wooden loft. All choices are ro-
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