Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
( 2652-9134; www.playanegra.com ; s/d/tr/q from US$102/113/124/136; )
This sweet compound of circular rancho bungalows is steps from a world-class reef break.
The traditional thatch-roof ranchos have high ceilings and breezy porches. Higher-priced
suites are further from the beach, but they have air-con, private decks with hammocks and
outdoor showers. Restaurant and surf shop onsite.
Getting There & Away
There is no public transportation to/from Playa Tamarindo to Playas Avellanas or Negra,
though surf camps often organize trips. The only bus connections are heading inland, via
Santa Cruz (US$1.50, 1½ hours, two daily). The schedule seems to change frequently, so
inquire locally.
Playa Junquillal
Hard to pronounce and almost as difficult to find, Junquillal (say 'hoon-kee-yal') is a 2km-
wide gray-sand wilderness beach that's absolutely stunning and mostly deserted. To the
south, a dome boulder crumbles into a jutting rock reef and beyond that is a vast,
200-hectare estuary carved by the Río Nanda Mojo. To the north is a narrow rise of bluffs
sprouting clumps of palm trees. Sunsets are downright surreal with blinding golds, molten
oranges and shocking pinks. The sea does swirl with fierce rip currents, however, and
when it gets big, surfers descend from Negra. But even when the surf isn't high, it's dan-
gerous out there and drownings do happen. Don't let kids or even intermediate swimmers
venture out alone.
Olive ridley turtles nest in Junquillal from July to November, with a peak from August
to October, though in smaller numbers than at the refuges; Junquillal is also an important
nesting site for leatherbacks. Though it is not officially protected, conservation groups
have teamed up with local communities to protect the nesting sites and eliminate poaching.
With far more Ticos than tourists, Junquillal has an inviting authenticity unique on the
northern peninsula. The nearest town is 4km inland at Paraíso, which has a few local sodas
and bars. Accommodations are spread out along the beach.
Sleeping & Eating
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