Arenal & Northern Lowlands - Costa Rica - page 570

As with all indigenous reservations in Costa Rica, the Maleku welcome tourists, as craft
sales are vital to their survival. You can access thepalenquesvia Rte 143, though it's best
to inquire locally for directions as the roads are poorly maintained and unsigned.
Sleeping & Eating
Cabinas Los Almendros CABINA
( 8887-0495; [e-mail] ; s US$20, d US$24-30; )
A cute family-run motel with well-maintained rooms, blessed with a fresh coat of paint
and lovely bedding and window treatments. Each room is named after a different jungle
beast or bird, complete with hand-carved wooden sculpture. Set on the edge of town be-
hind the Banco Nacional, this is easily the best choice in the area.
The folks at Los Almendros offer transportation and tours to the Maleku reservation, the
Venado Caves and Río Celeste (Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio).
Cabinas Cristal CABINA
( 2464-0016; s/d US$20/24; )
There are a handful of clean pastel-brushed and tiled rooms, located in a tin-roofed,
atrium-style complex. There's no one working onsite, but the manager will supposedly
show up if you call.
Soda La Zuyapa SODA
(meals US$4; 6am-8pm)
Recommended by locals as the best soda in this humble town, La Zayupa offers a fresh
take on the traditional. Casados come with noodles and potato salad unless you request
otherwise. Drink options include fresh-pressed carrot juice and fresh-squeezed lemonade.
There are also burgers and excellent fried chicken.
Getting There & Away
Guatuso lies on Hwy 4, midway between Upala and Muelle de San Carlos (about 40km
from each). Buses leave frequently for Ciudad Quesada, where you can connect to La For-