Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
The village of Caño Negro and the entrance to the park lie on the rough road connecting
Upala and Los Chiles, which is passable to all cars during the dry season. However, this
road is frequently washed out during the rainy season, when a 4WD is required. Coming
from Los Chiles, the turnoff is right before the big cell tower (it may or may not be
signed); if you get to Escuela Los Angeles you've passed it.
Buses go to Los Chiles (US$2, one hour) at 7am, 1pm and 6pm. The return bus passes
through en route to Upala (US$2.50, one hour) at around 6:30am, 1pm, 3pm and 5pm.
Both buses stop at Real Tour and circle the village square; ask around as this schedule
changes frequently.
During the rainy season and much of the dry season, you can also catch a boat (US$20
to US$25) to and from Los Chiles. This is becoming increasingly popular, especially as
more travelers are crossing into and out of Nicaragua on the Río Frío.
Upala
Just 9km south of the Nicaraguan border in the northwestern corner of the northern low-
lands, Upala is a small ranchero town with a bustling market and plenty of tasty sodas . It's
a center for the area's ranching and rice industries; most visitors are Costa Rican busi-
nesspeople who come to negotiate for a few dozen calves or a truckload of grain. Though
it's a somewhat convenient public-transit stopover between the Volcán Tenorio area and
Caño Negro, there's no reason to linger.
Sleeping & Eating
The busy market, just behind the bus terminal, opens early with several nice sodas dishing
up good gallos (tortilla sandwiches), empanadas (turnovers stuffed with meat or cheese)
and just about everything else. There are also a few Chinese restaurants and produce
vendors.
Hotel Marakabú HOTEL
( 2470-4008; hotelmarakabu@hotmail.com ; d US$28; )
Coming into town from the southeast, you'll cross a river and come across this attractive
two-story stucco building facing a pleasant courtyard. The rooms are musty but super
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