Caribbean Coast - Costa Rica - page 375

INDIGENOUS COMMUNITIES IN THE SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN
The area is home to a number of thriving indigenous communities, many of which can be
visited by travelers. Brush up on a little local knowledge first:
Bribrí & Cabécar
At least two indigenous groups occupied the territory on the Caribbean side of the
country from pre-Columbian times. The Bribrí tended to inhabit lowland areas, while the
Cabécar made their home high in the Cordillera de Talamanca. Over the last century,
members of both ethnic groups have migrated to the Pacific side. But many have stayed
on the coast, intermarrying with Jamaican immigrants and even working in the banana
industry. Today the Bribrí tend to be more acculturated, while the Cabécar are more isol-
ated.
The groups have distinct languages (which are preserved to some degree), though they
share similar architecture, weapons and canoe style. They also share the spiritual belief
that the planet - and the flora and fauna contained within it - are gifts from Sibö (God).
Taking Care of Sibö's Gifts,by Juanita Sánchez, Gloria Mayorga and Paula Palmer, is a re-
markable record of Bribrí oral history.
Visiting Indigenous Communities
There are several reserves on the Caribbean slopes of the Cordillera de Talamanca, in-
cluding the Talamanca Cabécar territory (which is more difficult to visit) and the Bribrí
territory, where locals are more equipped to handle visitors. ATEC organizes trips out of
Puerto Viejo.
The most interesting destination is Yorkín , in the Reserva Indígena Yorkín. While you
are there, you can meet with a local women's artisan group, Mujeres Artesanas St-
ibrawpa , who offer demonstrations in roof thatching, cooking and basket-weaving. It's a
rewarding trip, well worth the time and effort to get there (day trips US$70, overnights
US$90).
Alternatively, you can visit the larger modern village of Shiroles , about 20km west of
Bribrí, where you can observe and participate in local chocolate production (half-day trip
US$35). Half-day trips (US$25) also visit an iguana farm on the Kèköldi territory (this is
a tiny ethnicity related to the Bribrí).
Note: it is not recommended to visit these territories independently. Not only are many
spots difficult to reach, but in most cases villages do not have the infrastructure to ac-