Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Exploradores Outdoors ( 2222-6262; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com ) More expensive
package deals that include transport from San José, Puerto Viejo or Arenal-La Fortuna, a
mid-journey Río Pacuare rafting trip, and accommodations in Tortuguero.
GETTING TO SAN JUAN DE NICARAGUA
If you're planning to head further into Nicaragua, you can make arrangements with your
lodge for a water taxi to take you to the border town of San Juan del Norte - now called
San Juan de Nicaragua (or Greytown). It's a tranquil village, with few services but an in-
teresting history. At various times over the centuries, it has been under the control of
Miskito people, Spanish colonists, British troops and even US Marines. Much of it was
destroyed during the Contra-Sandinista conflict of the 1980s.
This is a little-used border crossing, however, so don't make the trip without first
checking in with Costa Rican immigration officials ( in Puerto Limón 2798-2097, in San
José 2299-8100). Barra del Colorado does not have an immigration office of its own, so you
may need to secure an exit stamp prior to arriving there.
In San Juan de Nicaragua, Río Indio Ecolodge ( 2231-4299, 2220-3594;
www.therioindiolodge.com ; s/d incl meals US$200/336; ) has 34 spacious polished-wood
rooms, a restaurant and bar. Fishing is the thing to do, but you can also go hiking or
kayaking.
San Juan is linked to the rest of Nicaragua by irregular passenger boats sailing up the
Río San Juan to San Carlos, on the Lago de Nicaragua.
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Barra del Colorado
At 904 sq km, including the frontier zone with Nicaragua, Refugio Nacional de Vida Sil-
vestre Barra del Colorado, or 'Barra' for short, is the biggest national wildlife refuge in
Costa Rica. It is also one of the most remote - more so since Costa Rica's commercial air-
lines suspended service to the area in 2009. This means that the only way to get to Barra is
via local bus-boat transportation from Cariari, charter boat from Tortuguero or charter
flight from San José.
The area has long been a favorite of sportfishers, who arrive to hook gar, tarpon and
snook. But those who aren't into fishing will be rewarded with incredible landscape. The
Ríos San Juan, Colorado and Chirripó all wind through the refuge and out to the Caribbean
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