Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Across the main road from La Casona is the turnoff for two peaceful mountaintop re-
treats (private transportation is a must here). Follow the signs through the town of Cachí,
then continue up the steep hill 3km to
Cabañas de Montaña Piedras Albas
(
8883-6449, 2577-1462;
www.cabinas.co.cr
;
cabinas US$60; )
, an ideal place to really slow
down. Simple wood cabinas come with kitchen, cable TV, and private deck with lake and
mountain views, and access to private hiking trails.
For a more upscale experience, continue 1km beyond Piedras Albas' driveway till the
steep, unpaved road dead-ends at beautiful
Hotel Quelitales
( 2577-2222;
www.hotelquelitales.com
; d US$160-185; )
. This idyllically sited collection of six
contemporary-chic bungalows features spacious rooms with wood floors, ultra-comfy mat-
tresses, indoor and outdoor showers, private decks (some with waterfall views) and large
canvases depicting the hummingbirds, ladybugs, toucans and other critters for whom the
cabins are named. The onsite restaurant (open to non-guests on weekends only) serves
trout and other Tico specialties.
Back down on the main road, 300m east of Casona del Cafetal and 1.5km south of the
dam, is
Casa del Soñador
(Dreamer's House; 2577-1186; 8am-6pm)
, an artisanal wood-
working studio run by Hermes and Miguel Quesada, sons of renowned Tico carver Mace-
donio Quesada. The brothers maintain the
campesino
(peasant farmer) tradition of whit-
tling gnarled coffee-wood branches into ornate religious figures and whimsical characters.
Their workshop displays sculptures of all sizes, with pieces available for purchase.
Just south of the dam, a side road forks off the main lake loop towards Tucurrique. Fol-
chi@hotmail.com
; 8am-4pm Sat-Sun, by appointment only Mon-Fri)
, a sport-climbing spot with
routes of varying difficulty. The US$20 fee includes equipment rental, as much climbing
as you can crank out, and a soak in its lovely river-diverted pool afterwards. Heed the
roadside sign that recommends 4WD - if you don't think you or your rental can negotiate a
super-steep track covered in marbles, park and hike down (and don't leave anything in
your car). Call ahead.
About 3km past the dam, you'll find the town of
Ujarrás
at the foot of a long, steep hill.
To reach the old village, which was damaged by an 1833 flood and abandoned, turn left off
the main road at the 'Ujarrás' sign and wind about 1km gently downhill, passing the well-
signposted Restaurant La Pipiola en route.
Only the crumbling walls remain of
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Limpia Con-
cepción
(
)
, a 1693 colonial stone church once home to a miraculous
8am-4:30pm;
