Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
PARQUE NACIONAL JUAN CASTRO BLANCO
This 143-sq-km
national park
(admission by donation) was created in 1992 to protect the
slopes of Volcán Platanar (2183m) and Volcán Porvenir (2267m) from logging and min-
ing. The headwaters for five major rivers originate here as well, making this one of the
most important watersheds in the country.
While federally protected, much of the park is still privately owned by various plantation
families - only those parts that have already been purchased by the government are
technically open to travelers. Park info is available at the brand-new
visitors center
(
8815-7094;
apanajuca@gmail.com
) (opened in late 2012), at the end of a rough 10km road
from El Sucre, 20km north of Zarcero. The road is passable for 2WD vehicles until the fi-
nal descent; if you don't have 4WD, park on the hilltop 300m before the visitors center.
From the visitors center a broad 1.5km trail climbs through reclaimed pastureland, then
descends steeply to
Pozo Verde
, a sparkling green lake surrounded by mountains. A
much rougher trail continues 3.5km to
Las Minas
, an abandoned mine site.
The park is popular among anglers as each of the five rivers is brimming with trout. The
limited infrastructure and tourist traffic means that your chances of spotting rare wildlife
(such as quetzals, black guans and curassow) are higher than average. Guides can be ar-
ranged through tour agencies and hotels in the area.
Tucked into a pretty valley about 1km below park headquarters,
Restaurante El Congo
( 8872-9808; mains US$11; 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) serves up fresh-caught trout, while the
adjacent
Albergue Ecológico Pozo Verde
( 8872-9808, 2460-8452;
www.alberguepozoverde.com
; d incl breakfast US$50-70) offers accommodation in six rustic
cabins. Both keep irregular hours, so call ahead to make sure they're open. Resplendent
quetzals can often be seen in the area between March and April.
Bajos del Toro
Pop 275
A gorgeous road snakes northeast out of Zarcero, climbing steeply through hillsides dotted
with family dairy farms, then plunging abruptly into the stunning valley of the Río Toro,
surrounded by the lower reaches of the area's cloud-forest ecosystem. If you were looking
