Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Grecia
US$1, 20 minutes, departs half-hourly from 5am to 8:30pm.
San José
US$2.25, 1½ hours, three direct buses daily; otherwise make connections in
Grecia.
Zarcero
Pop 4000
North of Naranjo, the road winds for 20km until it reaches Zarcero's 1736m perch at the
western end of the Cordillera Central. This is a gorgeous location: the mountains look as if
they've been lifted from landscape paintings and the climate is famously fresh. But the real
reason you're here is to see the country's most surreal shrubbery.
Parque Francisco Alvarado
, in front of the blue Iglesia de San Rafael (built 1895),
was just a normal plaza until the 1960s, when a gardener named Evangelisto Blanco sud-
denly became inspired to shave the ordinary, mild-mannered topiary into a bizarre series of
drippy, abstract shapes. Over the years, these have morphed into fanciful chimeras, blobby
dancing creatures and a double tunnel of melting arches. In other words, bring your cam-
era.
Zarcero is also a center for Costa Rica's organic-farming movement. You can find un-
usual varieties of pesticide-free goodies all over town, and the surrounding mountains are
just perfect for an afternoon picnic. If there was ever a place where the roadside stands are
worth it, this is it. Winding country lanes in the area are all lined with stands selling fresh
cashews, honey, sweets and
queso palmito,
a locally made cheese with a delicate taste (it
goes well with fresh tomatoes and basil).
Just across from the church is
Hotel Don Beto
( 2463-3137, in USA & Canada
240-415-1179;
www.hoteldonbeto.com
; d with/without bathroom US$35/25, tr US$45; )
, a
friendly, comfortable spot housing eight tidy rooms with hardwood floors - many come
with private balcony.
Transportes Zarcero
( 2451-4080)
runs direct buses to San José (US$2.40, 1¾
hours) five times daily. Hourly buses traveling between San José and Ciudad Quesada also
stop at Zarcero, but may be full by the time they reach Zarcero, particularly on weekends.
There are also buses to/from Alajuela, San Ramón and Grecia. All buses stop along the
main street below the square.
