Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
244
Local fixtur e Y-Que, 1770 N. Vermont A ve. ( & 323/664-0021; www .yque.com),
almost defies description, selling a variety of stuff ranging from a knockoff Austin Powers
penis pump to psychedelic lava lamps to L.A. neighborhood T-shirts.
With a focus on small-pr oduction, high-quality, affor dable wine fr om ar ound the
world, and a large selection of microbrew beer and sake, Silverlake Wine, 2395 Glendale
Blvd. ( & 323/662-9024; www.silverlakewine.com), is a gr eat place to visit. G et your
friends together and check out any one of their w eekly tastings: S unday at 3pm, B lue
Monday from 5 to 9pm, and Thursday Night Flights from 5 to 9pm (call ahead to con-
firm times). Located in S unset Junction (at the southeast corner of S anborn Ave. and
Sunset Blvd.), the Cheese Store of Silverlake, 3926-28 W. Sunset Blvd. ( & 323/644-
7511; www.cheesestoresl.com), sells fine cheeses, wines, and gourmet pr oducts such as
Revival confections, Latini pastas, Agr umato flav ored oils, and M cQuade's chutneys.
Next door is the West Coast's first Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea, 3922 W Sunset Blvd.
( & 323/663-6173; www.intelligentsiacoffee.com), wher e M ac-using hipsters conv ene
for artfully poured lattes and Chemex-brewed, single-origin coffee.
DOWNTOWN
Since the late lamented Bullock's department store closed in 1993 (its Ar t Deco master-
piece salons w ere rescued to house the S outhwestern Law School 's library), Downtown
has become less of a shopping destination than ever. Although many of the once-splendid
streets ar e lined with cut-rate luggage and electr onics stor es, shopping her e can be a
rewarding—albeit gritty—experience for the adventuresome.
Savvy Angelenos still go for bargains in the garment and fabric districts (see “D is-
count” under “Fashions,” later in this chapter); florists and bargain hunters arriv e at the
vast Los Angeles Flower District, 766 Wall St. (btw. E. 8th and E. 7th sts.; & 213/622-
1966; www .laflowerdistrict.com), befor e dawn for the city 's best selection of fr esh
blooms; and families of all ethnicities str oll the Grand Central M arket , 317 S.
Broadway (btw . 3r d and 4th sts.; & 213/624-2378; www .grandcentralsquare.com).
Opened in 1917, this bustling mar ket has watched the face of D owntown L.A. change
while changing little. Today its sawdust-covered aisles serve Latino families, enterprising
restaurateurs, and cooks in sear ch of unusual ingr edients—stuffed goat heads, mole,
plantains, deep-fried smelt, M exican cane alcohol—and bargain-priced pr oduce. O n
weekends you'll be greeted by a mariachi band at the Hill Street entrance, near my favor-
ite market feature, the fr uit-juice counter, which dispenses 20 fr esh varieties from wall
spigots and blends the tastiest, healthiest “shakes” in town. Farther into the market you'll
find pr oduce and pr epared foods, spice v endors who seem straight out of a Turkish
bazaar, and a grain-and-bean seller who 'll scoop out doz ens of ex otic rices and dried
legumes. It's open 9am to 6pm daily.
Another of my favorite Downtown shopping zones is Olvera Street ( & 213/
680-2525; www.olvera-street.com), a liv ely brick pedestrian lane near U nion S tation
that's been lined with stalls selling Mexican wares since the 1930s. Everything that's sold
south of the bor der is av ailable her e, including custom leather accessories, huarache
sandals, maracas, and—but of course—fr eshly baked churr os. O n w eekends, y ou're
bound to see str olling bolero musicians, mariachis, folk dancers, and per formances by
Aztec Indians. It's open daily from 10am to about 8pm.
If you're looking to find the best shopping deals in handbags, luggage, shoes, costume
jewelry, and tr endy fashions, then find a par king meter or par k in one of the par king
structures from Olympic Boulevard to 12th S treet and explore Santee Alley, located in
the alley between Santee Street and Maple Avenue. Often referred to as the hear t of the
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