Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
125
philosophy is to let the divine flav ors of wild fish pr evail, sauces ar e never overpower-
ing—striped sea bass in a pea tendril br oth, wild king salmon with a tr uffle vinaigrette,
kelp-marinated fluke. Lastly, be sure to order anything Cimarusti makes with sea urchin,
especially if you don't like sea urchin. Trust me, he'll convert you.
5855 Melrose Ave. (at N. Cahuenga Blvd.), Los Angeles.
&
323/460-4170.
www.providencela.com. Res-
ervations recommended. Main courses $32-$49. AE, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 6-10pm; Fri noon-2:30pm and
6-10pm; Sat 5:30-10pm, Sun 5:30-9pm. Valet parking $6.
Spago Beverly Hills
CALIFORNIAN Despite all the hoopla—and years of
stiff competition—Spago remains one of L.A. 's top-rated r estaurants and continues to
live up to the hype. Wolfgang Puck's talented henchman Lee H efter presides over the
kitchen, deliv ering the culinar y sophistication demanded b y an upscale B everly H ills
crowd. This high-style indoor/outdoor space glows with the aura of big bucks, celebrities,
and the per fectly honed California cuisine that set the standar d. M en will feel most
comfortable in jacket and tie (suggested, but not r equired). All ey es may be on the
romantically twinkle-lit outdoor patio (the most coveted tables), but the food takes cen-
ter stage. You simply can't choose wr ong—highlights include the appetiz er of foie gras
“three ways”; crawfish salad; sav ory duck either honey-lacquer ed and topped with foie
gras or Cantonese-style with a citr us tang; slo w-roasted S onoma lamb with braised
greens; and rich A ustrian dishes fr om “Wolfie's” childhood, such as spicy beef goulash
and perfect veal schnitzel.
176 N. C anon Dr. (nor th of Wilshire Blvd.), Beverly H ills.
&
310/385-0880.
w ww.wolfgangpuck.com.
Reservations required. Jacket and tie advised for men. Main courses $17-$42; tasting menu $125. AE, DC,
DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 11:30am-2:15pm and 5:30-10:30pm; F ri 11:30am-2:15pm and 5:30-11pm, Sat
noon-2:30pm and 5:30-11pm; Sun 5:30-10:30pm. Valet parking $6.50.
MODERATE
Beacon
Value
ASIAN FUSION Chef Kazuto M atsusaka wor ked at some of
L.A.'s top restaurants (Spago, Chinois on Main), mastering the art of fusion cooking. Along
with his wife Vicki Fan, the duo opened this small, minimally decorated cafe within the
6
Helms B akery complex. The r easonably priced cuisine is simple y et superb , combining
fresh California ingredients with traditional Asian cooking styles and a dash of Vicki's fam-
ily recipes. Start with the outstanding Kaki F ry appetizer—warm crispy oysters set in cool
lettuce cups and topped with
yuzu
tartar sauce (a steal at $6.50)—and the stir-fried mush-
room salad, a heav enly mix of organic mushr ooms, mixed greens, manchego cheese, and
tangy
yuzu
dressing. Other fantastic dishes include miso-marinated black cod with sesame-
tossed green beans, and a savory bowl of
kakuni udon
—thick wheat-flour noodles flavored
with a generous cut of braised pork belly, bamboo shoots, baby bok choy, and warm broth.
Tip:
On sunny days request a table at the back patio .
3280 Helms A ve. (at Washington Blvd.), Culver City.
&
310/838-7500.
www.beacon-la.com. Reserva-
tions recommended. Main courses $13-$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun 5:30-9pm; M on 11:30am-2pm; Tues-
Wed 11:30am-2pm and 5:30-9pm; Thurs-Sat 11:30am-2pm and 5:30-10pm. Free parking.
Bombay Café
INDIAN This friendly sleeper may be L.A. 's best I ndian spot,
serving excellent curries and kormas typical of S outh Indian street food. O nce seated,
immediately order
sev puri
for the table; these crispy little chips topped with chopped
potatoes, onions, cilantro, and chutneys are the perfect accompaniment to what's sure to
be an extended menu-reading session. Also recommended are the burrito-like “frankies,”
juicy little br ead rolls stuffed with lamb , chicken, or cauliflo wer. The best dishes come
