Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
124
restaurant in the city. A true master of fish cookery, Matsuhisa creates unusual dishes by
combining Japanese flavors with S outh American spices and salsas (he was the first to
introduce Americans to y ellowtail sashimi with sliced jalapeños). B roiled sea bass with
black truffles, miso-flavored black cod, sautéed squid with garlic and so y, tempura sea
urchin in a shiso leaf , and D ungeness crab tossed with chiles and cr eam are just a fe w
examples of the masterfully prepared dishes available, in addition to thickly sliced nigiri
and creative sushi rolls. The small, crowded main dining room suffers from poor lighting
and pr ecious lack of priv acy; many big names ar e usher ed thr ough to priv ate dining
rooms. Expect a bit of attitude fr om the staff as well.
Tip:
If you're feeling adventurous,
ask for
omakase,
and the chef will personally compose a selection of eccentric dishes.
129 N. La Cienega Blv d. (north of Wilshire Blvd.), Beverly Hills.
&
310/659-9639.
www.nobumatsuhisa.
com. Reservations required. Main courses $15-$50; sushi $4-$13 per or der; full
omakase
dinner fr om
$75. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Fri 11:45am-2:15pm; daily 5:45-10:15pm. Valet parking $5.
Ortolan
FRENCH Named after a small bird that's been savored to near extinc-
tion by French gourmands (and now an outlawed delicacy), this wonderful restaurant is
cleverly designed into four separate sections: a glamorous main dining room with creamy
leather booths and cr ystal chandeliers; a mor e r ustic dining r oom with P ennsylvania
barn-plank flooring and a long communal table; a small, dimly lit bar; and a cozy fir e-
place lounge for small dinner par ties or r omancing couples. The most popular dishes
include crispy langoustines with a shot of minestrone, a superb lamb
pastilla
wrapped in
phyllo and served in thick slices, and the most tender squab I've ever tasted. For dessert,
try the melting chocolate cake with pralines.
Tip:
If you don't have a reservation, join the
dinner party at the enormous communal table or find a spot in the fir eside lounge.
8338 W. 3rd St. (at N. K ings Rd.), Los Angeles.
&
323/653-3300.
www.ortolanrestaurant.com. Reserva-
tions recommended. Main courses $19-$43. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues-Thurs 6-10pm; Fri-Sat 6-10:30pm. Bar
open until midnight. Valet parking $6.
6
The Palm
STEAK/LOBSTER The child of the famous N ew York restaurant of
the same name, the Palm is widely regarded as one of the best traditional American eater-
ies in the city. In both food and ambience, this West Coast apple hasn't fallen far fr om
the pr overbial tr ee. The r estaurant is brightly lit, bustling with energy , and playfully
decorated with dozens of celebrity caricatures on the walls. Live Nova Scotia lobsters are
flown in almost daily and then broiled over charcoal and served with big bowls of melted
butter. Most are enormous (3-7 lb .), and, although they 're obscenely expensive, can be
shared. The steaks and swordfish are similarly sized, perfectly grilled to order, and served
a la car te b y cheeky white-jacketed waiters who hav e been ar ound since the N ixon
administration. For dessert, stick with the Palm's perfect New York cheesecake, flown in
straight from the Bronx.
9001 Santa M onica Blvd. (btw. Doheny Dr. and Rober tson Blvd.), West Hollywood.
&
310/550-8811.
www.thepalm.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses dinner $17-$41, lobsters $18 per pound;
lunch $10-$19. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Fri noon-10:30pm; Sat 5-10:30pm; Sun 5-9:30pm. Valet parking $5.
Providence
MODERN AMERICAN SEAFOOD Chef Michael Cimarusti
and his quadrilingual Italian compatriot, Donato Poto, fulfilled their dream to create the
city's preeminent seafood experience. I t's a pleasur e to just r elax at this sleek, modern
space and converse with Donato at the bar, so be sure to arrive a bit early. Because Cimar-
usti visits the fish market daily for the choicest seafood available, I recommend asking the
waiter which ar e the ev ening's best dishes or , better y et, inquire if M ichael has time to
make a brief visit to y our table and offer his advice (he 's a wonder ful guy). Because his
