Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
121
Tips The Sturgeon King, Take 2
New Yorkers suffering L.A. culture shock can seek comfort food on the fifth floor of
the Barneys New York department store in Beverly Hills. The elevator doors open
and voilà —a Barney Greengrass on the Left Coast. This authentic—and expen-
sive—New York deli not only air-delivers its renowned smoked sturgeon and Nova
Scotia salmon direct from the Big Apple, but it has even bejeweled the swanky
lunch spot with subway-style tiles. You'll have to move quickly to get a coveted
table on the outdoor terrace—all those power lunchers from the entertainment
industry won't hesitate. The raison d'être dishes here are the Nova Scotia salmon
(or sturgeon) scrambled with eggs and onion, cheese blintz es, and chopped
chicken liver sandwiches—all washed down with New York-style seltzer water on
tap. It's open Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday from 10am to 7pm; Thurs-
day from 10am to 8pm; Saturday from 10am to 7pm; Sunday from noon to 6pm.
9570 Wilshire Blvd. (at Camden Dr.), Beverly Hills. & 310/276-4400.
The Ivy NEW AMERICAN If you're willing to endure the cold shoulder to ogle
L.A.'s celebrities and pay lots for a per fect meal, the I vy can be enjo yable. This snobby
place attracts one of the most industry-heavy crowds in the city and treats celebrities and
nobodies as differently as Brahmins and untouchables. Just past the cool reception lie two
disarmingly countrified dining r ooms filled with r ustic antiques, comfor tably worn
chintz, and hanging baskets of fragrant flowers. Huge roses bloom everywhere, including
out on the charming brick patio (wher e the highest-profile patrons are seated and duti-
fully ignore the stares). The Ivy's Caesar salad is perfect, as are the plump and crispy crab
cakes. Recommended dishes include spinach linguine with a peppery tomato-basil sauce,
prime rib dusted with Cajun spices, and tender lime-marinated grilled chicken. There's
even a great burger and kick-ass fried chicken. The wine list is notable, and there's always
a terrific variety of desserts (pink boxes are on hand for chocolate-chip cookies to go).
113 N. Robertson Blvd. (btw. 3rd St. and Beverly Blvd.), West Hollywood. & 310/274-8303. Reservations
recommended on weekends. Main courses dinner $22-$38, lunch $10-$25. AE, DC, DISC, MC,V. Mon-Sat
11:30am-10:30pm; Sun 10:30am-10:30pm. Valet parking $6.
6
Jar STEAK Jar offers ev erything you could hope for in a r estaurant: a warm
and relaxed setting, excellent service, and generous servings of reliably fantastic food. The
braised K urobuta por k shank and a K obe-style filet of beef—both per fectly cooked,
simply seasoned—are divinely flav orful. It was always Chef S uzanne Tracht's dream to
open a contemporary version of a 1940s-era chophouse, and y ou can tell that she's put-
ting her best into every plate that leaves the kitchen. Everything she makes is a lesson in
quality and simplicity. Among her most popular dishes ar e the N iman Ranch char sui
pork chops and her coup de grâce—a sensational pot r oast with caramelized onions and
carrots (if you've had a better one let me know). An extensive wine list and martini menu
are two good reasons to arrive early and stay for a nightcap at the beautiful Parisian-style
bar. Tip: Suzanne's Sunday brunch is one of the best in the city .
8225 Beverly Blvd (at Harper A ve.), Los Angeles. & 323/655-6566. www.thejar.com. Reservations rec-
ommended. Main courses $21-$48. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon-Thurs 5:30-10pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-11pm; Sun
10am-2pm and 5:30-9:30pm. Valet parking $7.
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