Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Many of the carpet merchants use a clever way of catching the eye and ear of the pass-
ersby. As the visitor approaches a shop, a walker coming in the opposite direction will ask,
in a succession of languages, “What time is it?” If and when an answer is volunteered, that
language is relayed to the shopkeeper, and when visitors approach they are greeted ful-
somely in their own language. Once the visitor enters the shop, rugs are unrolled is quick
succession. “Which one do you like?” the shopkeeper keeps asking. If any preference is
expressed, the bargaining is now presumed to begin.
“Let the buyer beware” is advice especially suited to the purchase of a carpet. The
agony columns of travel magazines are filled with stories of those who have had their rugs
shipped home (“Save you the trouble of packing and carrying”), only to discover that the
carpet is not the one ordered and paid for in Istanbul. If possible, purchasers should carry
the rugs home. And buyers are especially warned of the pitfalls involving silk carpets.
Skimmed milk masquerades as cream; in the half-light of the shop, viscose thread takes on
the sheen of silk. And as carpets are unrolled, a complimentary service of tea is offered.
Tea must be boiled, but the tea-bearers who rush through the Bazaar carrying small cups of
tea cannot always be counted on to observe the rules of hygiene, either for themselves or
their tea service.
Throughout the Bazaar and most everywhere else, bargaining is the order of business.
Visitors shy of bargaining will be encouraged by the invitation, “Just make me an offer.” A
useful rule to follow is the simplest: No merchant has ever lost money on a transaction, no
matter how small the final offer. A less reliable rule is this: Merchants claim they can sep-
arate the sincere from the specious bargainer by watching the prospect's eyes. Excitement
makes the pupils dilate (remember comic strips and cartoons?). From that claim comes an-
other suggestion: Avoid eye contact with those with whom you bargain! And if you truly
want to wander the Grand Bazaar without interrogation, smile, don't speak, and carry a
Turkish newspaper conspicuously (but carelessly) displayed.
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