Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
TARQUINIA
Tarquinia is entirely different from Cerveteri, yet equally breathtaking. Here lies the world's most remarkable col-
lection of pre-classical painting, with a huge complex of tombs that are vivid with detail and colour. Modern-day
Tarquinia, with its narrow cobbled streets, perfectly preserved walled city and graceful buildings, merits a visit in
any case, especially for its fantastic Etruscan museum.
On the edge of Tarquinia's
centro storico
lies the
Museo Nazionale Tarquiniese
( 0766 85 60 36; Via Ca-
vour 1; admission €6, incl Necropoli di Monterozzi €8; 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) housed in the exquisite
15th-century Palazzo Vitelleschi, a fabulous palace centred around a courtyard. Highlights of its collection are a
breathtaking terracotta frieze of winged horses (the Cavalli Alati) and, on the upper floors, several frescoed tombs
that have been transported here in their entirety, full of incredibly vibrant paintings.
To see Tarquinia's famous painted tombs in situ, head for the
necropolis
( 06 3996 7150; adult/child €6/3,
incl museum €8/4; 8.30am to 1hr before sunset Tue-Sun) , located 1.5km from town. To get here, either take
bus D (€0.60, nine daily) from outside the tourist office or walk - head up Corso Vittorio Emanuele, turn right in-
to Via Porta Tarquinia and follow straight into Via Ripagretta.
This site is unlike Cerveteri in that the parts of the tombs above ground have been destroyed, and the treasures
beneath are now protected by functional little corrugated huts. However, it's what lies beneath the ground that is
important.
Of the 6000 tombs that have been excavated since 1489, 19 are currently open to the public, including the
Tomba della Caccia e della Pesca, the richly decorated Tomba dei Leopardi and the Tomba della Fustigazione
with its erotic depiction of a little friendly S&M. The tombs made the news in 2013, when paleography professor
Carlo Tedeschi presented his study of graffiti in the Tomb of Bartoccini, which indicates the Knights Templar
took part in sexual rituals here in the Middle Ages.
To reach Tarquinia from Cerveteri, take one of the regular Cotral buses from Piazza A Moro to Ladispoli rail-
way station (six minutes), then take a train to Tarquinia (€3.50, 35 minutes, hourly). Returning to Rome from Tar-
quinia, there are trains direct to Termini (€6.90, one hour 20 minutes, half-hourly).
