Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
EATING
Traditionally working-class and poor, nowadays chic and pricey, picturesque Tras-
tevere is packed with restaurants, trattorias, cafes and pizzerias. The better places dot
the maze of side streets, and it pays to be selective, as many of the restaurants are bog-
standard tourist traps. But it's not just tourists here - Romans like to eat in Tras-
tevere too.
East of Viale di Trastevere
ARTIGIANO INNOCENTI€
( 06 580 39 26; Via delle Luce 21; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-2pm Sun; or Viale di Trastevere)
It's
at reassuring spots like this that you can feel that the world never changes, in some corners
at least. Here you can buy light-as-air
crostate
, and stock up on biscuits such as
brutti ma
buoni
(ugly but good).
BAKERY
PANATTONI€
PIZZERIA
( 06 580 09 19; Viale di Trastevere 53; pizzas €6.50-9; 6.30pm-1am Thu-Tue; or Viale di Trastevere)
Panattoni is nicknamed
l'obitorio
(the morgue) because of its marble-slab tabletops.
Thankfully the similarity stops there. This is one of Trastevere's liveliest pizzerias, with
paper-thin pizzas, a clattering buzz, testy waiters, streetside seating and fried starters (spe-
cialities are
supplì
(fried rice balls) and
baccalà
).
BRASSERIE 4:20€
( 06 5831 0737; Via Portuense 82; meals around €20; 7pm-2am Sun-Wed, to 4am Thu-Sat; Piazza di Porta
Portese)
Rome's passion for artisanal beer shows no sign of abating, and this characterful
brick-arched place, with kegs outside and a cool neon sign, not only has myriad rare
draught beers (plus beers on tap by Revelation Cat), but also takes the concept one step fur-
ther: many of its dishes are beer-based (how about some tiramistout!). There are also good
burgers, if you're in a burger-and-beer mood.
RESTAURANT
LA GENSOLA€€
SICILIAN
