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ice), put on a thermal cloak and mittens, and enter the bar, in which everything is made of
ice (temperature: -5˚C). Most people won't chill here for long - the record is held by a
Russian (four hours).
Esquilino
BAR ZEST AT THE RADISSON BLU ES.
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( Via Filippo Turati 171; 9am-1am; Via Cavour) In need of a cocktail in the Termini district?
Pop up to the 7th-floor bar at the slinkily designed Radisson Blu Es. Waiters are cute,
chairs are by Jasper Morrison, views are through plate-glass and there's a sexy rooftop
pool to look at. A glass of prosecco costs €9 and there are light meals and snacks (plus a
children's menu).
BAR
CASTRONI
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( Via Nazionale 7; 7.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-8pm Sun; Via Cavour) This gourmet shop sells
foodstuffs from all over the world. Although this branch doesn't have as large a range as
that on Via Cola di Rienzo, it still has the fab cafe, which has great coffee, panini and oth-
er snacks, and you can stand at the bar or sit at a few booth tables.
CAFE
FIDDLER'S ELBOW
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( Via dell'Olmata 43; 5pm-2am; Via Cavour) Near the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, the
granddaddy of Rome's Irish pubs sticks to the formula that has served it so well over the
last 25 years or so: Guinness, darts, crisps and big games, attracting a mix of Romans, ex-
pats and tourists. There's live traditional music on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, plus open-
mic nights on Thursdays.
PUB
FINNEGANS
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( www.finneganpub.com ; Via Leonina 66; Cavour) At first glance this seems like an identikit Irish
pub, but look closer and the craic here has Italian twists - the clientele are well-groomed
expats and Romans, and you can order Bellinis as well as Guinness. It's Irish-run and
shows all the big football and rugby games, and there's occasional live music.
PUB
DRUID'S DEN
PUB
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