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cooked with wit and flair. The best thing? There's a more basic but still delectable fixed
two-course lunch for €16, and Saturday and Sunday brunch is €30, served in the dramatic,
glass-ceilinged hall, with a terrace for sunny days.
San Lorenzo & Beyond
In San Lorenzo, the vibrant boho student area east of Termini, you'll find an enticing mix
of trendy restaurants and dirt-cheap pizzerias.
FORMULA UNO€
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PIZZERIA
( 06 445 38 66; Via degli Equi 13; pizzas from €6; 6.30pm-1.30am Mon-Sat; Via Tiburtina, Via dei
Reti) This basic, historic San Lorenzo pizzeria is as adrenaline-fuelled as its name: waiters
zoom around under whirring fans, delivering tomato-loaded bruschetta, fried courgette
flowers, supplì al telefono and bubbling thin-crust pizza to eternal crowds of feasting stu-
dents.
POMMIDORO€€
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( 06 445 26 92; Piazza dei Sanniti 44; meals €35; Mon-Sat, closed Aug; Via Tiburtina) Throughout
San Lorenzo's metamorphosis from down-at-heel working-class district to down-at-heel
student enclave, Pommidoro has remained the same. It was a favourite of controversial
film director Pasolini and contemporary celebs stop by, but it's an unpretentious place
with superb-quality traditional food, specialising in grilled meats.
TRATTORIA
TRAM TRAM€€
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TRATTORIA
( 06 49 04 16; www.tramtram.it ; Via dei Reti 44; meals around €40; 12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun;
Via Tiburtina) This trendy yet old-style lace-curtained trattoria takes its name from the
trams that rattle past outside. It's a family-run concern whose menu is an unusual mix of
Roman and Pugliese (southern Italian) dishes, featuring taste sensations such as tiella riso,
patate, cozze (baked rice dish with rice, potatoes and mussels). Book ahead.
SAID€€
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( 06 446 92 04; Via Tiburtina 135; meals €50; Via Tiburtina, Via dei Reti) Said is one of San
Lorenzo's chicest haunts, housed in a 1920s chocolate factory. It includes a glorious
MODERN ITALIAN
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