Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
PIGNETO & AROUND
Pigneto is emerging as Rome's nuovo-hip district, a rapid metamorphosis from the working-class quarter it has
been for decades. However, it has long been part of the Roman artistic consciousness, immortalised by film-
maker Pasolini, who used to hang out at Necci and filmed
Accattone
(1961) here. There's a small-town feel, with
decaying low-rise houses and graffiti-covered narrow streets. The action is on Via del Pigneto: it's largely pedes-
trianised with a busy food market by day; bars spread across the street at night. To reach here, take a tram from
Termini to Via Prenestina.
Eating
table-style place where you can feast on
porchetta
(pork roasted with herbs), mozzarella, earthy cured meats and
simple pastas, without hefting all the way to Frascati - the small town outside Rome where people traditionally
eat like this. It's rough and ready, full of studenty types, and with blown-up photos of post-war Pigneto adorning
the walls.
Osteria Qui se Magna!
( 06 27 48 03; Via del Pigneto 307; meals €25; Mon-Sat; Via Prenestina) A
small, simple place adorned with gingham paper tablecloths and with a couple of outside tables, here you can eat
heavenly, hearty, home-cooked food, such as
carciofi con patata
(artichokes with potatoes).
Necci
( 06 9760 1552;
www.necci1924.com
; Via Fanfulla da Lodi 68; meals around €35; 8am-1am daily;
; Via Prenestina) To start your exploration of this bar-studded area, try the iconic Necci, which opened as
an ice-cream parlour in 1924 and later became a favourite of director Pier Paolo Pasolini. After a devastating fire
in 2009, it was given a retro-infused makeover; now under the stewardship of English chef Ben Hirst, it serves up
sophisticated Italian cooking to an eclectic crowd of all ages, with a lovely, leafy garden-terrace (ideal for famil-
ies).
7.30pm-2am Tue-Sat, Sun lunch; ; Via Prenestina) Flagship of the Pigneto scene, Primo is still buzz-
ing after several years, with outdoor tables and a vaguely industrial brasserie-style interior. Service is slow,
though.
Tue-Sun; Via Prenestina) New kid on the block, this is a chic addition to the eating scene, proffering deli-
cious Roman classics such as
cacio e pepe
as well as grilled steak and
baccalà
(cod).
Drinking
vallazione Casilina) Think living room with zebra-print chairs, walls of indie art, Lou Reed biographies shelved
between wine bottles, and 30-something owner Gabriele playing his latest New York Dolls album to neo-beatnik
chicks, corduroy professors and the odd neighbourhood dog. Well-priced wine, an intimate chilled vibe, and regu-
lar live music, with eclectic bands squeezed onto the bar's tiny gallery.
Aperitivo
costs €3.
