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ini bees; and Borromini's Chapel of the Magi, where the theme of the wise mens' epi-
phany acts as an allegory for converts to Christianity.
This little-visited museum also has an eclectic collection of items brought back from
overseas missions, such as paintings of Japanese life in the 1930s and a Canova portrait of
Ezzelino Romano, and some of the extraordinary gifts the pope has received over the
years.
PALAZZO VALENTINI
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ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
( 06 3 28 10; www.palazzovalentini.it ; Via IV Novembre 119a; adult/reduced €10/8, advance booking fee €1.50;
9.30am-5.30pm Wed-Mon; Spagna) Underneath a grand mansion that's been the seat of the
Province of Rome since 1873 lie the archaeological remains of several lavish ancient Ro-
man houses; the excavated fragments have been turned into a fascinating multimedia 'ex-
perience'. Tours are every 30 minutes, but alternate between Italian, English and French.
Book well ahead online or by phone, especially during holiday periods.
The visit takes you on a virtual tour of the dwellings, complete with sound effects,
vividly projected frescoes and glimpses of ancient life as it might have been lived in the
area around the buildings. It's genuinely thrilling and great for older kids. A newly excav-
ated area allows you to visit the remains of a great public building, with columns built
from huge Egyptian granite blocks, underground close to Trajan's Column. There are also
displays that vividly illuminate the history of Trajan's military campaign and allow a
close-up look at the column's bas-reliefs and the story they tell.
CASA DI GOETHE
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MUSEUM
( 06 3265 0412; www.casadigoethe.it ; Via del Corso 18; adult/reduced €5/3; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun;
Flaminio) A gathering place for German intellectuals, the Via del Corso apartment where Jo-
hann Wolfgang von Goethe enjoyed a happy Italian sojourn (despite complaining of the
noisy neighbours) from 1786 to 1788 is now a lovingly maintained museum. Exhibits in-
clude documents and some fascinating drawings and etchings. With advance permission,
ardent fans can use the library which is full of first editions. There are free guided tours in
Italian at 11am on Sundays.
VILLA MEDICI
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PALACE
( 06 6 76 11; www.villamedici.it ; Viale Trinità dei Monti 1; gardens adult/reduced €9/7, Wed tour including cardin-
al's apartments €11/9;
Spagna) This striking Renaissance
10.30am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Tue-Sun;
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