Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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( 06 686 96 60; www.renatoeluisa.it ; Via dei Barbieri 25; meals €45; 8.30am-12.30pm Tue-Sun; Largo di
Torre Argentina) A favourite among in-the-know Romans, this backstreet trattoria is always
packed. Chef Renato takes a creative approach to classic Roman cooking, resulting in
dishes that are modern, seasonal and undeniably local. Typical of this approach is his ca-
cio e pepe e fiori di zucca (pasta with pecorino cheese, black pepper and courgette
flowers) .
DITIRAMBO$$
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MODERN ITALIAN
( 06 687 16 26; www.ristoranteditirambo.it ; Piazza della Cancelleria 72; meals €40; closed lunch Mon;
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) Hugely popular Ditirambo broke culinary ground when it opened in
1996, marrying the informality of an old-school trattoria with forward-looking, creative
cooking. Since then it has performed consistently well and it's still a top spot for seasonal,
organic cooking and excellent vegetarian dishes. Book ahead.
GRAPPOLO D'ORO$$
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MODERN ITALIAN
( 06 689 70 80; www.hosteriagrappolodoro.it ; Piazza della Cancelleria 80; meals €40; closed Tue & Wed
lunch; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II) This informal, welcoming eatery stands out among the
sometimes lacklustre options around Campo de' Fiori. The food is creative without being
fussy, and includes some timeless favourites such as baccalà alla romana (cod with rais-
ins, pinenuts and tomatoes) and spaghetti alla carbonara .
SERGIO ALLE GROTTE $$
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( 06 686 42 93; Vicolo delle Grotte 27; meals €30-35; Mon-Sat; Via Arenula) A flower's throw
from Campo de' Fiori, Sergio's is a textbook Roman trattoria: chequered tablecloths,
dodgy wall murals, bustling waiters and steaming plateloads of hearty, down-to-earth
pasta and large steaks grilled over hot coals. In the summer there are a few tables outside
on the cobbled, ivy-hung lane.
TRATTORIA
SALUMERIA ROSCIOLI$$$
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( 06 687 52 87; Via dei Giubbonari 21; meals €55; Mon-Sat; Via Arenula) This deli-cum-wine-
bar-cum-restaurant is a gourmet's paradise. Under the brick arches , you'll find a mouth-
watering array of olive oils, conserves, cheeses (around 450 varieties), Spanish and Italian
GASTRONOMIC
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