Northern Highlands & Islands - Scotland - page 784

Driving Tour: Wee Roads & Mighty Mountains
Starting in the photogenic harbour town of Ullapool, this drive takes in some of the lesser-known roads and the most
majestic of Highland scenery, ending at the Isle of Skye.
Leave your bags in the hotel, because the first day is a long round trip from Ullapool. Head north, and take the
left turn towards Achiltibuie , where after gaping at impressive lochside Stac Pollaidh en route, you can admire
the outlook over the Summer Isles. From here, it's the Wee Mad Road, a narrow, tortuous but pretty drive north to
Lochinver . From this pretty town, another minor road winds north past spectacular beaches at Achmelvich and
Clachtoll to Kylesku , where the hotel makes a great lunch stop. Head back south to Ullapool on the main road,
with classic northwestern scenery and things to see such as Inchnadamph Caves, Ardvreck Castle and Knockan
Crag along the way.
The next day head inland along the A835 before taking the Gairloch turn-off, following the long, circuitous
coast road with plenty of activity options from whale-watching trips to pacing a botanic garden to hill walking
around one of Scotland's most scenic lochs, Loch Maree. At Kinlochewe turn back towards the coast, descend-
ing a spectacular pass to Torridon , where the rugged beauty is simply breathtaking. There are good overnight
stops all along this route.
From Shieldaig , take the coastal route to sublime little Applecross , then brave the Bealach na Ba pass to
get you back to the main road. A loop around Loch Carron will eventually bring you to the A87. Turn left, passing
Eilean Donan Castle and, reaching Glen Shiel, take the right turn to Glenelg , a scenic, out-of-the-way place
with a wonderfully rustic ferry crossing to Skye (not in winter). Disembark at Kylerhea and enjoy the vistas on one
of the island's least-trafficked roads before hitting the A87 again. From here, Portree is an easy drive, but nu-
merous picturesque detours - to Sleet or Elgol for example - mean you might take a while to reach it yet.
Money
Only Portree and Broadford have banks with ATMs, and Portree's tourist office has a cur-
rency exchange desk.
Tourist Information
Broadford Information Centre ( 01471-822361; car park, Broadford; 9.30am-5pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Apr-Oct)
Dunvegan Information Centre ( 01470-521581; 2 Lochside; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat
Jun-Oct plus 10am-4pm Sun Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Apr & May, limited opening
hours Nov-Mar)
Portree Information Centre ( 01478-612137; Bayfield Rd; internet per 20min £1;
9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Jun-Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat Apr, May
& Sep, limited opening hours Oct-Mar)