Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
by annual ballot so that each took turns at getting the poorer soils; this system was known as
runrig
. The families
worked the land communally and their cattle shared the grazing land.
After Culloden, however, the king banned private armies and new laws made the clan chiefs actual owners of
their traditional lands, often vast tracts of territory. With the prospect of unimagined riches allied to a depressing
failure of imagination, the lairds decided that sheep were more profitable than agriculture and proceeded to evict
tens of thousands of farmers from their lands. The Clearances forced these desperate folk to head for the cities in
the hope of finding work or to emigrate to the Americas or southern hemisphere. Those who chose not to emigrate
or move to the cities to find work were forced to eke a living from narrow plots of marginal agricultural land, of-
ten close to the coast. This was a form of smallholding that became known as crofting. The small patch of land
barely provided a living and had to be supplemented by other work such as fishing and kelp-gathering. It was al-
ways precarious, as rights were granted on a year-by-year basis, so at any moment a crofter could lose not only
the farm but also the house they'd built on it.
The economic depression of the late 19th century meant many couldn't pay their rent. This time, however, they
resisted expulsion, instead forming the Highland Land Reform Association and their own political party. Their
resistance led to several of their demands being acceded to by the government, including security of tenure, fair
rents and eventually the supply of land for new crofts. Crofters now have the right to purchase their farmland and
recent laws have abolished the feudal system, which created so much misery.
COLDBACKIE & TONGUE
POP 500
Coldbackie has outstanding views over sandy beaches, turquoise waters and offshore is-
lands. Only 2 miles further on is Tongue, with the evocative 14th-century ruins of
Castle
Varrich
, once a Mackay stronghold. To get to the castle, take the trail next to the Royal
Bank of Scotland, near Ben Loyal Hotel - it's an easy stroll. Tongue has a shop, post of-
fice, bank and petrol station.
Sleeping & Eating
HOSTEL
Tongue SYHA£
(
01847-611789;
www.syha.org.uk
; Tongue; dm/tw £19/45; Apr-Sep; )
In a won-
derful spot right by the causeway across the Kyle of Tongue, a mile west of town, Tongue
SYHA is the top budget option in the area, with clean, comfortably refitted dorms - some
with views - a decent kitchen and cosy lounge. It's bright and helpful, and there's a lock-
able shed for bikes.
Cloisters££
B&B
