Southern Highlands & Islands - Scotland - page 614

There are few more uplifting sights on Scotland's west coast than the view of Iona from
Mull on a sunny day - an emerald island set in a sparkling turquoise sea. From the mo-
ment you step off the ferry you begin to appreciate the hushed, spiritual atmosphere that
pervades this sacred island. Not surprisingly, Iona attracts a lot of day trippers, so if you
want to experience the island's peace and quiet, the solution is to spend a night here. Once
the crowds have gone for the day, you can wander in peace around the ancient graveyard
where the early kings of Scotland are buried, attend an evening service at the abbey or
walk to the top of Dun I and gaze south towards Ireland, as St Columba must have done
so many centuries ago.
History
St Columba sailed from Ireland and landed on Iona in 563 before setting out to spread
Christianity throughout Scotland. He established a monastery on the island and it was here
that the Book of Kells - the prize attraction of Dublin's Trinity College - is believed to
have been transcribed. It was taken to Kells in Ireland when Viking raids drove the monks
from Iona.
The monks returned and the monastery prospered until its destruction during the Re-
formation. The ruins were given to the Church of Scotland in 1899, and by 1910 a group
of enthusiasts called the Iona Community ( www.iona.org.uk ) had reconstructed the ab-
bey. It's still a flourishing spiritual community that holds regular courses and retreats.
Sights & Activities
Head uphill from the ferry pier and turn right through the grounds of a ruined 13th-cen-
tury nunnery with fine cloistered gardens, and exit at the far end. Across the road is the
Iona Heritage Centre ( 01681-700576; adult/child £2/free; 10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat
Apr-Oct) , which covers the history of Iona, crofting and lighthouses; the centre's coffee
shop serves delicious home baking.
Turn right here and continue along the road to Reilig Oran , an ancient cemetery that
holds the graves of 48 of Scotland's early kings, including Macbeth, and a tiny
Romanesque chapel. Beyond rises the spiritual heart of the island - Iona Abbey (HS;
01681-700512; adult/child £5.50/3.30; 9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, to 4.30pm Oct-Mar) .
The spectacular nave, dominated by Romanesque and early Gothic vaults and columns,
contains the elaborate, white marble tombs of the 8th duke of Argyll and his wife. A door
on the left leads to the beautiful Gothic cloister, where medieval grave slabs sit alongside
modern religious sculptures. A replica of the intricately carved St John's Cross stands
just outside the abbey - the massive 8th-century original is in the Infirmary Museum