Southern Highlands & Islands - Scotland - page 579

Activities
There are few proper footpaths on Jura, but any off-the-beaten-path exploration will in-
volve rough going through giant bracken, knee-deep bogs and thigh-high tussocks. Most
of the island is occupied by deer-stalking estates, and access to the hills may be restricted
during the stalking season (July to February); the Jura Hotel can provide details of areas to
be avoided.
The only real trail is Evans' Walk , a stalkers' path that leads for 6 miles from the main
road through a pass in the hills to a hunting lodge above the remote sandy beach at Glen-
batrick Bay. The path leaves the road 4 miles north of Craighouse (just under a mile north
of the bridge over the River Corran). The first 0.75 mile is hard going along an inter-
woven braid of faint, squelchy trails through lumpy bog; aim at or just left of the cairn on
the near horizon. The path firms up and is easier to follow after you cross a stream. On the
descent on the far side of the pass, look out for wild orchids and sundew, and keep an eye
out for adders basking in the sun. Allow six hours for the 12-mile round trip.
Another good walk is to a viewpoint for the Corryvreckan Whirlpool , the great tidal
race between the northern end of Jura and the island of Scarba. From the northern end of
the public road at Lealt you hike along a 4WD track past Barnhill to Kinuachdrachd Farm
(6 miles). About 30m before the farm buildings a footpath forks left (there's an incon-
spicuous wooden signpost low down) and climbs up the hillside before traversing rough
and boggy ground to a point 50m above the northern tip of the island. A rocky slab makes
a natural grandstand for viewing the turbulent waters of the Gulf of Corryvreckan; if you
have timed it right (check tide times at the Jura Hotel), you will see the whirlpool as a
writhing mass of white water diagonally to your left and over by the Scarba shore. Allow
five to six hours for the round trip (16 miles) from the road end.
Climbing the Paps of Jura is a truly tough hill-walk over ankle-breaking scree that re-
quires good fitness and navigational skills (you'll need eight hours for the 11 long, hard
and weary miles). A good place to start is by the bridge over the River Corran, 3 miles
north of Craighouse. The first peak you reach is Beinn a'Chaolais (734m), the second is
Beinn an Oir (784m) and the third is Beinn Shiantaidh (755m). Most people also climb
Corra Bheinn (569m), before joining Evans' Walk to return to the road. If you succeed in
bagging all four, you can reflect on the fact that the record for the annual Isle of Jura fell
race is just three hours!
There are easier short walks (one or two hours) east along the coast from Jura House,
and north along a 4WD track from Feolin. Jura - A Guide for Walkers by Gordon Wright
(£2) is available from the tourist office in Bowmore, Islay.