Central Scotland - Scotland - page 441

The Tay runs like a storybook river between the twin towns of Dunkeld and Birnam,
nestled in the heart of Perthshire's big-tree country. As well as Dunkeld's lovely cathedral,
there's much walking to be done in this area of magnificent forested hills. These same
walks were one of the inspirations for Beatrix Potter to create her children's tales.

Sights & Activities
Situated on the grassy banks of the Tay, Dunkeld Cathedral (HS; www.historic-scot-
land.gov.uk ; High St; admission free; 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat & 2-4.30pm Sun Apr-
Sep, 9.30am-4pm Mon-Sat & 2-4pm Sun Oct-Mar) is one of the most beautifully sited
cathedrals in Scotland. Don't miss it on a sunny day, as there are few lovelier places to be.
Half the cathedral is still in use as a church; the rest is in ruins, and you can explore it all.
It partly dates from the 14th century; the cathedral was damaged during the Reformation
and burnt in the battle of Dunkeld (Jacobites vs Government) in 1689. The Wolf of
Badenoch , a fierce 14th century noble who burned towns and abbeys to the ground in
protest at his excommunication, is buried here - undeservedly - in a fine medieval tomb
behind the wooden screen in the church.
If you're looking to entertain the kids for a few hours, drop by welcoming Going Pottie
( www.goingpottie.com ; Cathedral St; painting from £6; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat,
11am-4pm Sun) where they can get a paintbrush in their hand and create colourful ceram-
ics. They're happy to look after them here while you go off to see the cathedral nearby.
Across the bridge is Birnam, made famous by Macbeth . There's not much left of Birnam
Wood, but there is a small, leafy Beatrix Potter Park (the children's author, who wrote
the evergreen story of Peter Rabbit , spent childhood holidays in the area). Next to the
park, in the Birnam Arts Centre, is a small exhibition ( www.birnamarts.com ; Station Rd;
admission £1.50; 10am-4.30pm Oct-Mar, to 5pm Apr-Sep) on Potter and her charac-
ters.
Loch of the Lowes Wildlife Centre ( 01350-727337; www.swt.org.uk ; adult/child
£4/50p; 10am-5pm) , 2 miles east of Dunkeld off the A923, has wildlife displays mostly
devoted to the majestic osprey. There's also an excellent birdwatching hide (with binocu-
lars provided), where you can see the birds nesting during breeding season.

Sleeping & Eating

Birnam Hotel££
( 01350-728030; www.birnamhotel.com ; Perth Rd; s/d/f £80/100/138; ) This
grand-looking place with crow-stepped gables has tastefully fitted rooms - superiors

HOTEL