Central Scotland - Scotland - page 438

monk's bell . In the churchyard, there's a 2000-year-old yew that was around when the
Romans camped in the meadows by the River Lyon: popular if unlikely tradition says that
Pontius Pilate was born here. Today the tree is a shell of its former self - at its zenith it
had a girth of over 17m, but souvenir hunters have reduced it to two much smaller trunks.
Fortingall Hotel ( 01887-830367; www.fortingall.com ; s/d £90/120; ) ,
alongside, is a peaceful, old-fashioned country hotel with polite service and furnished
with quiet good taste. The bedrooms are spotless with huge beds, modern bathrooms and
thoughtful little extras. They look out over green meadows; in all, a perfect spot for doing
very little except enjoying the clean air and excellent dinners.
GLEN LYON
This remote and stunningly beautiful glen runs for some 34 unforgettable miles of rickety
stone bridges, Caledonian pine forest and sheer heather-splashed peaks poking through
swirling clouds. It becomes wilder and more uninhabited as it snakes its way west, and is
proof that hidden treasures still exist in Scotland. The ancients believed it to be a gateway
to Faerieland, and even the most sceptical of people will be entranced by the valley's ma-
gic.
From Fortingall, a narrow road winds up the glen - another road from Loch Tay crosses
the hills and reaches the glen halfway in, at Bridge of Balgie . The glen continues up to a
dam (past a memorial to explorer Robert Campbell); bearing left here you can actually
continue over a wild and remote road (unmarked on maps) to isolated Glen Lochay and
down to Killin. Cycling through Glen Lyon is a wonderful way to experience this special
place.
There's little in the way of attractions in the valley - the majestic and lonely scenery is
the reason to be here - but at Glenlyon Gallery ( www.glenlyongallery.co.uk ; admission
free; 10am-5pm Thu-Tue) , in Bridge of Balgie, a selection of fine handmade pieces are
for sale. Adjacent is the Bridge of Balgie post office (light meals £3-4; 8am-6pm Apr-
Oct, closed Tue-Thu Nov-Mar, food served until 4pm) , the best - the only - spot for sup-
plies (limited), or sandwiches and soups (very tasty).
Milton Eonan ( 01887-866337; www.miltoneonan.com ; s/d £39/78; ) is a
must for those seeking utter tranquillity in a glorious natural setting. On an effervescent
stream where a historic watermill once stood, it's a working rare-breed croft that offers a
romantic one-bedroom self-catering cottage (breakfast available for a little extra) at the
bottom of the garden. It can sleep three at a pinch. The lively owners do packed lunches
and evening meals (£20) using local and home-grown produce. After crossing the bridge
at Bridge of Balgie, you'll see Milton Eonan signposted to the right.
There is no public transport in the glen.