Central Scotland - Scotland - page 417

part of the building dates from 1360; it was enlarged to its present dimensions around
1606.
The castle is 3 miles northwest of Pittenweem on the B9171. Bus 95 from St Andrews
gets you closest − about 1.5 miles away. You can get straight to the castle by booking a
Go-Flexi ( 01334-840340; www.go-flexi.org ; £2) 'taxibus' from Anstruther.
Three miles north of Anstruther, off the B9131 to St Andrews, is Scotland's Secret
Bunker ( www.secretbunker.co.uk ; adult/child/family £9.90/7/29; 10am-6pm Apr-Oct) .
This fascinating Cold War relic was to be one of Britain's underground command centres
and a home for Scots leaders in the event of nuclear war. Hidden 30m underground and
surrounded by nearly 5m of reinforced concrete are the austere operation rooms, commu-
nication centre and dormitories. It's very authentic and uses artefacts from the period,
which make for an absorbing exploration. The Scottish Campaign for Nuclear Disarma-
ment (CND) has an exhibit, bringing home the realities of Britain's current nuclear
Trident policy. The bunker is a gripping experience and highly recommended.
To get to the bunker, book a Go-Flexi 'taxibus' from Anstruther, or it's a standard taxi
(£15 to £18) from St Andrews. Alternatively, jump off an X26 bus from Anstruther to St
Andrews at the Drumrack crossroads and walk east for about 1.5 miles along the B940.
PITTENWEEM
POP 1747
Just a short stroll from Anstruther, Pittenweem is now the main fishing port on the East
Neuk coast, and there are lively morning fish sales at the harbour. The village name means
'place of the cave', referring to St Fillan's Cave (Cove Wynd; adult/child £1/free) , which
was used as a chapel by a 7th-century missionary. The peaceful, atmospheric cave is pro-
tected by a locked gate, but a key is available from the chocolate shop at 9 High St, a great
street to wander in itself, with galleries, cafes and craft shops.
Bus details for Pittenweem are as for Anstruther.
GLENEAGLES
Deep in rural Perthshire, near the town of Auchterarder, one of Scotland's most famous lodgings can be found: the
Gleneagles Hotel ( 01764-662231; www.gleneagles.com ; d £435-535; ) . Not your typical
B&B, this is a no-holds-barred luxury spot with three championship golf courses, Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles −
often referred to as Scotland's best restaurant (open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday) − and a variety of extravag-
antly elegant rooms and suites designed to cope with anything from a serious romantic splash out to a royal family
in exile. Despite the imposing building and kilted staff snapping to attention, it's welcoming to non-VIPs and fam-