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nonsense dishes such as lamb sweetbreads on toast, baked coley with skirlie (fried oat-
meal and onion), and devilled liver with bacon and onions.
FRENCH
Café Marlayne££
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( 0131-226 2230; www.cafemarlayne.com ; 76 Thistle St; mains £12-15; noon-10pm)
All weathered wood and candlelit tables, Café Marlayne is a cosy nook offering French
farmhouse cooking - brandade de morue (salt cod) with green salad, slow-roast rack of
lamb, boudin noir (black pudding) with scallops and sautéed potato - at very reasonable
prices. Booking recommended.
Escargot Bleu££
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( 0131-556 1600; www.lescargotbleu.co.uk ; 56 Broughton St; mains £13-18; lunch
& dinner Mon-Sat) As with its sister restaurant, l'Escargot Blanc on Queensferry St, this
cute little bistro is as Gallic as garlic but makes fine use of quality Scottish produce - the
French-speaking staff will lead you knowledgeably through a menu that includes authent-
ic Savoyard tartiflette, quenelle of pike with lobster sauce, and pigs cheeks braised in red
wine with roast winter vegetables.
FRENCH
Valvona & Crolla VinCaff裣
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( 0131-557 0088; www.valvonacrolla.co.uk ; 11 Multrees Walk, St Andrew Sq; mains
£9-17; 8am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; ) Foodie colours dominate the decor at
this delightful Italian bistro - bottle-green pillars and banquettes, chocolate-and-cream-
coloured walls, espresso-black tables - a perfect backdrop for VinCaffè's superb antipasto
(£17.50 for two), washed down with a bottle of pink Pinot Grigio.
ITALIAN
SEAFOOD
Mussel Inn££
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( www.mussel-inn.com ; 61-65 Rose St; mains £9-23; noon-10pm; ) Owned by west-
coast shellfish farmers, the Mussel Inn provides a direct outlet for fresh Scottish seafood.
The busy restaurant, decorated indoors with bright beechwood, spills out onto the pave-
ment in summer. A 1kg pot of mussels with a choice of sauces - try leek, Dijon mustard
and cream - costs £12.20.
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